Unlike most manicures, where the nails are softened with water and conditioner, the Russian manicure is performed on dry skin
The platform that made Hailey Bieber’s glazed donut nails go viral is TikTok, the source of the hottest nail trends. But what is the latest trend that constantly appears in the same Medium?
It’s the Russian manicure, which already has 652.5 million views. It’s an incredibly polished manicure with a glossy finish, which has already won over many famous fans, including Kendall Jenner, Hailey Bieber, Zendaya and Jasmine Tookes – who have gone so far as to say they might never go back to “regular manicure”.
However, the meticulous method has raised concerns among beauty experts.
“Like many beauty trends that become popular on social media, the Russian manicure has a theatrical element to it that makes it addictive,” Tinu Bello, who handles the nails of Zawe Ashton, Dina Asher-Smith, and Holly Willoughby, tells Bustle.
“What you’re seeing on TikTok is the most extreme version of the treatment that involves methods that can create an almost Photoshop-like finish, but can cause damage when applied incorrectly,” he warns.
What is Russian manicure?
The defining feature of the treatment, which became popular in the UK about five years ago, is the absence of the cuticle – the patch of clear skin along the bottom edge of the finger.
Unlike most manicures, where the nails are softened with water and conditioner and then processed with special manicure tools, the Russian manicure (also known as an “E-file” manicure) is performed on dry skin and requires an electric file to to remove the skin around the nails.
Although Bello maintains that traditional manicures are the best, she admits that it’s hard to beat the “precision” of working materials and the cleaning, exfoliating and pushing components that go into the ultimate finish.
Nail artist Lisa Kon describes this manicure as “clean and perfect” – and pleasing to the eye because the treatment removes the skin around the nail bed, creating an instantly neat, fresh look that’s the perfect canvas to apply polish .
Bello says the “clear” base creates a manicure that lasts nearly three weeks, compared to traditional gels that tend to last about two and a half weeks on average.
“It’s very easy to get hung up on the perfection that only this method can provide,” says Bello, who warns that erasing the area around the nail bed creates a vicious cycle.
The skin is trying to repair itself, so she encourages clients to maintain moisture levels and incorporate hand creams, oils and even gentle exfoliants into their routines. Not only can the health of the skin be affected, but also the strength of the nail layer if the manicure is left for too long.
Is Russian manicure safe?
Like any beauty treatment, there is an element of risk, especially when not done by someone who is qualified. “Processing near the nail bed with sharp equipment can cause damage to the base of your nails, bleeding, pain and open wounds that when exposed to bacteria and pathogens can lead to infections,” warns Bello.
The Russian manicure is an invasive treatment that should only be performed by highly trained and experienced professionals, she adds.
While the technique delivers the glossy perfection you’d expect from a photo shoot, the IRL method may not be as “necessary” as social media would have you believe.
“I do Russian manicure only when required and I avoid doing such extreme actions like the ones you see on TikTok, which are often posted to get likes,” says Bello, who only uses the method on special occasions (e.g. wedding) and on nails whose skin layer is particularly dry and damaged.
How long does the Russian manicure take?
Both Bello and Kon agree that you can’t rush perfection. Russian manicures require detailed treatments with multiple steps that shouldn’t be done quickly, so while a traditional manicure can be done in about 45 minutes, a Russian manicure can take anywhere from an hour and a half to two hours, Bello explains.
The precision of cuticle work can take an hour alone, which means that in addition to forming the nail, filling the surface, applying a special base coat that needs time to dry well, two layers of gel color, a glossy top coat and then a pass under an LED lamp to seal everything that came before, you’ll definitely need 2 hours.
How much does a Russian manicure cost?
“The Russian manicure is complicated and that’s why it’s two to three times more expensive than a standard manicure,” explains Kon. The result, the process, the training and also the special equipment are all that form a higher price.
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I am Frederick Tuttle, who works in 247 News Agency as an author and mostly cover entertainment news. I have worked in this industry for 10 years and have gained a lot of experience. I am a very hard worker and always strive to get the best out of my work. I am also very passionate about my work and always try to keep up with the latest news and trends.
