Brazil’s Olympic uniform is conservative and stereotypical, experts say

With two days to go until the opening of the Paris Olympics, one of the topics that has been trending most on social media is not the chance of winning medals or anything related to the sporting events. There is a lot of talk about the outfits that the countries will wear in the highly publicized and innovative ceremony, this Friday (26), in a 6km parade on boats along the Seine River.

Google Trends data shows that searches for uniforms are the most popular topic among Internet users related to the Olympics. Of the 25 searches that have risen in the last 30 days, 16 are about the uniforms of the Brazilian national team and other countries, such as Mongolia.

The national athletes will be presented to the world wearing white midi skirts (or long pants), green and yellow striped T-shirts and denim jackets with jaguars, macaws and toucans embroidered on the back. On their feet, they will be wearing Havaianas flip-flops. The pieces were made by Riachuelo. Judging by the opinion of those who know the subject, Brazil does not seem to be doing very well.

According to Monayna Pinheiro, a fashion consultant and professor at Fundação Armando Alvares Penteado University (Faap) in São Paulo, there was a lack of a contemporary perspective that represented the country’s diversity. “The proposal for fauna and flora is very stereotypical. In general, the uniforms portray a very conservative idea, with the skirt and the colors. It would need to work on a different proportion to be more contemporary. I miss prints, more embroidery,” she says. F5.

For the teacher, “diversity when we talk about Brazil was not represented. “There was a lack of refinement”, she adds. Positive points? That there are, there are. But there are not many. Pinheiro highlights the work done by artisans to compose the pieces. “The jackets were made with recycled jeans, and the embroidery on the back was done by embroiderers from Rio Grande do Norte.”

This opinion is supported by Globo’s costume designer, Marie Salles, who is responsible for the actors’ outfits in soap operas such as “Avenida Brasil” and the recent remake of “Pantanal”. For her, the country missed the chance to showcase its rich culture, diversity and manual techniques.

“It’s great that they used embroiderers from Rio Grande do Norte and their manual art, but Brazil is not just a country of macaws, jaguars and toucans. The uniform was simplistic,” says Salles.

Designer Lenny Niemeyer, responsible for Brazil’s uniform for the opening of Rio 2016, addresses another point: the importance of the Olympic uniform being timeless, and not reproducing something that is in fashion. “When I designed it, I tried to focus on the long term and make something timeless. These things have to be eternal because they last. [uniforme] From Brazil to Paris is a delicate situation, I believe that a denim jacket is timeless, but I would do without sandals on my feet. It doesn’t refer to the sports world.”

In a note sent to F5 Regarding criticism from Internet users, Riachuelo says it is open to receiving consumer comments. “At this moment, we are directing all our efforts, energy and enthusiasm to motivate and cheer on our athletes who are preparing so hard for this moment and count on our support and cheering.”

WHICH ONE IS THE MOST BEAUTIFUL?

Brazilians’ dissatisfaction led to an understandable comparison with the uniforms of other countries. The biggest highlight was the Mongolian clothing, from the Michel & Amazonka brand, from that country (of course).

“They are gorgeous,” says Monayma, from Faap, when analyzing the blue and white vest, with gold embroidery and red details. “They say it took an average of 20 hours for each piece to be developed. It is all inspired by traditional tunics and caftans with wide sleeves, full of embroidery details on the cuffs and vests, pleated skirts and draped capes. The gold also refers to Mongolian culture,” she says.

Lenny shares this opinion. “It was the one I liked the most, it reminds me a lot of the country itself, it’s very well made. It’s the most beautiful of all, impeccable.”

The host country will open the show wearing tailored clothing from Berluti, owned by LVMH, a fashion conglomerate that includes brands such as Louis Vuitton. Navy blue blazers, silk skirts and leather loafers are among the pieces. “Classic”, “timeless”, “comfortable” and “elegance” were the definitions used by the experts.

Another outfit that caught everyone’s attention on digital platforms was the Haitian one, featuring bold prints and a bold color palette, by the brand Stella Jean, in partnership with Haitian artist Phillippe Dodard. “Beautiful uniforms, symbolizing peace and renewal,” comments Marie. “The women’s outfit is well crafted on the bias, with imposing, structured shoulders and a wide belt,” analyzes Monayna.