By Nicolas Bard

Unlike many Cycladic villages that are deserted in the winter and come to life again in the summer, Filoti Naxos remains alive and crowded all year long. It is the largest village not only on the island, but also of all the Cyclades, which currently has 1,500 permanent residents.

This picturesque village is built at the foot of Mount Zas, at an altitude of about 400 meters, and is 18.2 kilometers from Chora. Today’s village grows on the slopes of two hills and consists of three total settlements: Rahidi, Clepharos and Liyiri. Of course, there stands out the church of Panagia of Philotissa, dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin, and a great festival is set up every 15th of August.

It is a Basilica built in 1718 in place of an older Byzantine temple.

There are various theories about the name of the village. The prevailing, however, is the view of the Naxos Philologist D. Economidis, that it is a main name, that is to say, the name of an existing person. It is estimated that in antiquity or in the early Byzantine period the settlement was named a friend, which was known in the area, probably because it had estates. The philologist-historian Stefanos Emm. Psarras reinforces this view with the listing that this name or the like is found in other parts of Greece, where Ionians had been settled. There is also a name “Filot” in a Frankish directory at the beginning of the Frankish rule (early 13th century), and there is also a written reference to a dedication of 1309, where the word “Philotissa” is mentioned to a person. In letters from the 15th -century Franks, the name Filoti is mentioned and they were considered one of the best feuds in Naxos!

Approaching the village from the main highway, the image of the settlement, which is developing amphitheatrically, is impressive. The heart of the village beats in the central square with the centuries -old plane tree (1912) which is a meeting point and gathering. From there begins an impressive network of paved alleys, which tour the Cycladic settlement magnificent.

The square was called “Bridge”, as many years ago there was a stream passing and there was a bridge, under which the waters ran, descending from the springs of Kalamos and Agia Irini. At that time there was also a watermill, fueled by a cistern, whose remains are preserved to this day.

In the past, this point was not used as a village square, as there were other spaces in the two settlements, most famously the historic Square of the Lachanari, located in the settlement of Klefaros and the squares of Agios Konstantinos and bean, located in the settlement of Rahidi. The interior of the two old settlements in the two opposite hills is the most traditional one would expect to see in a historic Cycladic village. The picturesque churches, the labyrinthine straits with the arches, the blooming bougainvilleas and the colored doorways create a backdrop like a true painting! That is why Filoti has been described as a traditional and preserved settlement since 1988.

The locals love the particular identity and history of their place, and make sure that the younger ones love him the same, so that the flame of the village will never erase. This love and passion is visible wherever you find yourself, which explains that the village remains so vibrant and active throughout the year.

If, then, find yourself in Naxos, after enjoying your dives on the blue Aegean beaches, go up the island’s mountainous hinterland. There the traditions are still alive, the gastronomic wealth inexhaustible, the natural beauty unparalleled and the hospitality of the locals unlimited. Do not miss the opportunity to see this special and unique side of Naxos, which is difficult to find in the Cyclades. The only sure thing is that the inland of the island will leave you the best impression!