Second hand clothes are usually presented as an economic and ecological alternative to fast fashion and over -consumption. But is this true? Used clothes are fashionable! In 2024, the world market for used clothes reached 194 billion euros, that is, as much as its annual sales, according to analyst Neil Sonders. The younger generations, the so -called Gen Z and Milenials, feed this trend. “It has become a place of creation, people are having fun,” says Sonders. “In addition, many see it as a more viable choice,” he adds.

And this is no accident. Fashion is one of the most devastating environmental industries, responsible for up to 10% of the anthropogenic greenhouse gas emissions. This is without taking into account the huge water consumption and water pollution. These figures also add huge clothing production: from 10% to 30% of the clothing manufactured will never be sold. Somewhere there is the resale, which promises to improve the ecological impact of fashion. According to one study, resale could reduce the broadcasts of large clothing companies and outdoor brands by 16% by 2040.

The promise of thrifing to reduce fashion pollution

However, second hand -handed store owners have noticed a broader decline in the quality of used clothing since fast fashion companies, such as Primark and Shein, have flooded the market. And even in the sales of used, in terms of prices, it wins the internet again …

Ten years ago, the online used market was limited to platforms that promoted hand -to -hand purchases. Soon, however, the big retail players also wanted a share. From Fast Fashion Chains Zara and Shein, to big companies such as North Face and Dr. Martens, today all have their own resale platforms.

The experience of the online market is not virtually different from a classic online store: there are filters for numbers, designs and colors. The noticeable difference, however, lies in marketing, which highlights the idea that you buy used clothes “is doing something good for the planet” … leaving the aspiring buyer with a sense of shopping … he is doing a heroic act.

In addition, if one deepen his search for used online stores, it will not be long to understand that some Resale platforms are directly linked to the sale of new clothes. In addition, techniques such as countless measurement and notifications for “last chance” are reminiscent of fast fashion. Martin Rayman, a professor in marketing from the University of Arizona, warns that these tools “which were drawn from electronic advertising can consolidate over -consumption in resale.”

Can the new one be more viable than used?

According to a survey by the British NGO Wrap, only three out of five used markets replace really new species. Researchers at the University of Utrecht argue that the key is the long -term use of clothes and not just the Second Hand market.

So what’s the conclusion? Second hand clothes (and not only …) can indeed offer a new life in a garment, lengthening their life time, as long as it is really worn … so as not to repeat the same consumer patterns that have been established to date in fashion.

Curated by: Chryssa Vachcevanou