How to choose the right sunscreen to protect your face from the sun

With summer fast approaching, it’s time to restock your sunscreen. And, as always, there are many new products on the market. When analyzing the options, doubts will certainly arise: should the product be applied over or under the moisturizer? Is mineral sunscreen more effective? (And why is it usually opaque?) Why do some products leave a white coating on the skin? How to avoid this?

Here are the answers to these and other questions.

What sun protection factor (SPF) should I use?

“We recommend using SPF 30, with reapplication every two hours,” said Silvia Mancebo, a dermatologist at Weill Cornell School of Medicine and New York-Presbyterian Hospital in New York. According to the doctor, 28 grams of sunscreen are enough to cover the entire body, which means taking the product with you if you are going to spend several hours outdoors.

Several products in portable size are very practical for this purpose. If you burn easily, it makes sense to use a sunscreen with a higher SPF. But even an extremely high FPS is likely not to provide as much protection from sun damage as you might think.

According to Carla Burns, senior director of cosmetic science at the Environmental Working Group, a nonprofit research and activism organization, the additional protection actually offered by a high SPF is often minimal.

SPF 30 protects against approximately 97% of UVB rays, which cause sunburn, while SPF 50 offers around 98% protection, according to the American Cancer Society.

“It’s common for people to believe that an SPF 100 offers twice as much protection as an SPF 50, but the actual difference is negligible,” Burns pointed out.

An important issue is the protection offered by a higher SPF against UVA rays, which can cause wrinkles, sagging and skin cancer.

Last fall, the Environmental Working Group released a study of 51 sunscreens purchased at retail stores such as US drugstore chain CVS and department stores Target. The products, which were tested in a lab rather than on people, offered approximately a quarter of the UVA protection specified by their SPF.

Are mineral sunscreens better?

Mineral sunscreens, with ingredients such as zinc oxide, are effective and gentle, although they are reminiscent of the white-smeared nose of lifeguards. Several decades ago, zinc oxide used to be difficult to apply, but sunscreen formulas have come a long way.

“There are several zinc oxide-based products on the market that don’t leave a residue or that white color,” Burns said.

Are aerosol products just as effective?

Aerosol sunscreens are popular, but it’s difficult to ensure that all of your skin is covered. (A reliable method is to spray the product on your hands and then apply it.) Still, they are attractive, especially for parents. According to Shonda Lundy, creator and founder of Black Girl Sunscreen, “Kids aren’t always quiet, and that makes it easy to apply.”

His company recently launched BGS Kids Spray & Play, with SPF 50, which dries quickly after application. She said that the product was created to meet a consumer demand. There is also the adult version, Make It Glow, with FPS 30.

What about body oils with SPF?

Sunscreen oils provide an elegant feel and leave a smooth glow on the skin. “These products provide good hydration and often have a beautiful glow. Who doesn’t want that on their arms and legs?” said Penny Coy, vice president of merchandising at Ulta Beauty.

A new option worth mentioning is the Isle Body Oil SPF 30 from Cay Skin, a recently launched line of solar products founded by model Winnie Harlow. (Harlow has vitiligo, a condition that causes areas of the skin to lose pigmentation; her product line promises to be suitable for all skin tones and sensitive skin.) The oil is pleasantly light and its formula has hydrating ingredients such as oil. of argan and coconut.

Do I need to be concerned if I have dark skin?

Everyone should use sunscreen daily. Traditional sunscreens, both chemical and mineral, can leave a white film on more pigmented skin, but some more modern formulas are designed to leave no trace on any skin tone.

Do I need to use sunscreen if I work in an office, near a window?

“Even through a window you are exposed to UV rays, so I encourage all my patients who work from home to use sunscreen,” said Jasmine Onyeka Obioha, a dermatologist at Cedars-Sinai Medical Center in Los Angeles, adding that it is It is important to use sunscreen on a cloudy day, because we are still exposed to UV rays even when the sun is covered.

Should I apply it before or after foundation and moisturizer?

Ideally, sunscreen should be the last step in your morning routine, recommended Mancebo, but it’s okay to apply it between your moisturizer and foundation.

What is the ideal type for sensitive skin?

Some sunscreens can cause reactions, such as dermatitis, on sensitive skin. Mineral sunscreens tend to be the safest – they are recommended by most dermatologists.

“It’s best to get a product with fewer ingredients. Look for something specific for sensitive skin, then look at the packaging to verify the absence of fragrances and dyes,” Mancebo instructed.

Should I avoid any specific ingredients?

Many consumers prefer a sunscreen without ingredients like octyl methoxycinnamate and oxybenzone, which have been proven to cause environmental harm. These ingredients have been banned in Key West, Florida, and Hawaii because of their toxic effects on marine ecosystems. (Some research has also linked them to hormonal dysfunction.)

My base already has FPS. Can I leave the sunscreen aside?

Simply, no.

“It is common to think that the foundation with SPF offers adequate protection, but for a foundation to offer the same benefit as a sunscreen, you would need about four tubes of the product”, pointed out Obioha.