There is something different about the air in Fortaleza in June. The atmosphere of São João is spread all over the place. The little flags on the streets, in bars and restaurants, at tourist attractions and in houses don’t let you forget that it’s a party time.
There are two completely different experiences, therefore. The Northeast from July to May is one. And the Northeast of June is another.
On the way out of the airport, a couple in typical June attire and an accordion welcome tourists in the arrivals hall.
At Abaeté Boteco, in the Joaquim Távora neighborhood, a place frequented by the cultural area of the city, the June decoration steals the scene that should be the foot-in-the-sand climate in almost the entire length of the land.
The DJ goes on until almost midnight, alternating Brazilian styles with the greatest hits of forró. And it’s not even the official date of the saint yet, just three days away.
At my destination, Beach Park, one of the main water parks in Latin America, located in Aquiraz (CE), 17 km from the capital, the employees already warn: the next day at night there is a São João party. And it’s not even the official date of the saint, just two days away.
The June decoration always draws attention. It is never something done sloppily, but meticulously prepared, with banners of the saint joanino, aligned flags, a table of food and drinks as abundant as possible, which includes hominy, curau, couscous, quentão, apple of love, pé de moleque, among others. many other delicacies.
At 7:30 pm, the forrozeira band is already waiting for tourists in the open-air ballroom at Beach Park for the June festival.
The master of ceremonies is the priest, who is going to perform the big wedding of the night, of a woman “embuchada” with a man “who did what he shouldn’t” and now runs away from the wedding like the devil from the cross.
The girl’s father and mother are possessed. Even the local delegate is called in to resolve the situation. The groom only appears by force, tied up. More cliché impossible, and therein lies the fun of the staging.
And then the men of the precinct are wanted to marry the girls. “Who is already married will marry again and who is not will marry now”, he repeats, to the audience’s laughter. Even an engagement ring (plastic) is given to everyone present.
A half dozen couples agree to go down to the imaginary aisle in an impromptu group wedding. Who is really married gives a kiss, and who is not gives a hug.
The gang’s time is the most lively. Those who don’t dance suffer a slight bullying from the presenter: “This one has a brave face”.
But he gets a much bigger quorum than the wedding, and people dance in pairs in a line and then form circles, with steps and screams rehearsed on the spot, amid arms full of cell phones posting videos on Instagram and TikTok.
Then it’s time for Luiz Gonzaga and baião to shine under the command of the band.
When the night seems to be over, two stuffed animals appear, to the delight of the children, who run for the photos. They were imitating the steps and dances of adults and laughing at premarital crises. A fair tribute to child revelers.
Party ends before 10pm. There were no fireworks, bonfire, tents and several other elements of a June festival. There was no need.
The largest São João in the world is not from Campina Grande (PB) or from Caruaru (PE). The biggest Saint John in the world is the one you are in.
The first São João in a city in the Northeast is an unforgettable experience.
