New Year’s gastronomic customs around the world: Buckwheat noodles, pickled herring

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Countdown, fireworks, wishes for health and good luck compose the backdrop of the New Year reception, which is more or less the same in most parts of the world. But where the similarities end is when every people sits at the festive table. Buckwheat noodles, black-eyed peas, pickled herring, green lentils, pork in various versions but also a variety of sweet temptations compose the colorful gastronomic canvas of the New Year around the world.

The Japanese, at the change of time, eat buckwheat noodles (soba noodles), or toshikoshi soba as they are called, in order to say goodbye to the passing year and welcome the new one. In fact, these noodles are longer than usual, symbolizing longevity and prosperity, and the custom, which dates back to the 17th century, wants those who eat them to suck them and not chew them.

In Mexico, Tamales, corn pies stuffed with minced meat, cheese or anything else that appeals to someone steaming on corn leaves, are food for every occasion. On New Year’s Eve, however, they have their day, as dozens of packages are prepared that end up in the homes of relatives and friends. In fact, on the first day of the new year, Tamales are usually accompanied by a type of soup, menudo, which is said to be ideal for … a hangover!

In the southern United States, New Year’s brings black-eyed peas to the table, with Hoppin ‘John being one of the most popular dishes often paired with rice and pork along with black-eyed peas. There are various versions why Americans prefer black-eyed peas on this day (mainly in the south). Others say that because they “swell” when cooked, they also symbolize the increase of wealth all year round, while others interpret this trend through the proverb which says: eat poor on New Year and fat all the rest of the year.

In French-speaking parts of Canada, and especially in Quebec, a traditional meat pie is the one that steals the show at the New Year’s table, Tourtière. Fluffy dough leaves “hide” inside pieces of meat “tied” with spices and herbs – from cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg to sage, thyme and rosemary – leaving in the mouth a special taste that lifts the palate. The recipe for this dish varies and, in fact, it is said that there are so many variations that each family makes its own!

In France, on the other hand, the New Year is … sweet and the Croquembouche, a pyramid of suds and candy set up in a way reminiscent of a tower, is not missing from most festive tables. Apart from the New Year, this dessert is also served on other special occasions, such as weddings.

In the Netherlands, New Year is (gastronomically) intertwined with Oliebollen, a traditional dessert that can be translated as “oil balls”, but is also known as a Dutch donut. They are fluffy pastries, usually stuffed with raisins, prepared with simple everyday ingredients and fried in hot oil. They are served hot, with plenty of powdered sugar and if one prefers to avoid frying, one has only to look in the streets for the Oliebollenkraams, which sell these delicious delicacies.

With aromatic mulled wine, boiled with cinnamon and spices, the famous Glühwein, pork and marzipan welcomes the palate of Austrians and Germans in the new year. On New Year’s Eve (Sylvesterabend, as it is called), Austrians drink mulled wine, eat pork at dinner and decorate the table with almond paste pigs, marzipanschewein. The pigs are said to bring good luck for this and the Glücksschwein, made of various materials, is a first class gift for the new year!

Pizza and spaghetti may be intertwined with Italian gastronomic tradition, but Italians welcome the New Year with Cotechino con Lenticchie (green lentils with sausage), with lentils symbolizing money and good luck. Pork has its own special place on the New Year’s table of Italian households and with the (stuffed) zampone.

Pickled herring is used in the New Year in Poland and in many parts of Scandinavia, where it is found in abundance. Its silver color is considered to bring prosperity for it and has a special place on the festive table. Pickled herring in a cream sauce or with onions are some of the variations that these people especially like. In fact, in Poland the recipe for Sledzie Marynowane requires soaking the herring with salt in water for 24 hours and then placing it in a jar with spices, onions, a little sugar and white vinegar.

Of course, Danes and Norwegians add a sweet note to their table on New Year’s Eve with Kransekage (which translates to a wreath), made of marzipan donuts or cakes stacked on top of each other, glued to icing tower . In fact, a bottle of wine is often placed in the center of the Kransekage, with which they accompany the sweet dish.

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