Summer means beach, which means fish on a plate. And that’s a problem.
It’s a problem because people from São Paulo almost only eat fish when they go down to the coast. Consumes little and does not know how to choose fish. Buy what the fishmonger wants to sell—not necessarily the best or the freshest product.
“A trusting relationship with the supplier is the most important thing to buy well,” says chef Telma Shiraishi, from the Japanese restaurant Aizomê. Fits the mechanic, the hairdresser and, of course, the fish man.
But, unlucky, we don’t have that confidence — something you get with frequent shopping. Especially when we are traveling, away from home, on the beach. Therefore, it is necessary to learn some tricks. The first important choice: who to buy the fish from.
Fishmongers offer many options, but not always the best deal is among them. It is common for fish to travel to São Paulo and return to beach shops.
“Fish and seafood go to Ceagesp and from there they are distributed throughout the state, including the coast”, says Cintia Miyaji, PhD in biological oceanography and partner at Paiche, a consultancy for the sustainable purchase of fish that serves retail chains such as Carrefour and Sugarloaf Mountain.
Centralization at Ceagesp facilitates the sanitary inspection required for sales in fishmongers.
Eudes Assis, from the Taioba restaurant, in Camburi (São Sebastião), is exacting: buy directly from the fisherman.
“You just have to wait for the boats to arrive at the bar in Boiçucanga”, says the chef, referring to the fishermen’s port on that beach, also in São Sebastião.
Eudes, a native of the region and promoter of caiçara traditions, says that fishing there is carried out using a floating siege scheme. It is a net with weights at the bottom and buoys at the top, which forms a trap for marine creatures.
“There is a small swimming pool with the fish inside”, says the cook. “There, we pull the net and take only what we are going to use. Tortoise, we return it to the sea. Dogfish too. And species that are in the open.”
According to Eudes, the fence is usually visited by fishermen three times a day: at 6 am, at noon and at 6 pm. Close to these times, then, you should wait for the boats at the port.
Boiçuganga’s tip is, of course, only valid for those who are nearby. “But almost every beach in São Paulo has a caiçara community, with fishermen”, says Eudes. In these communities, “Google” is still that of the Sumerians: approach anyone and ask.
In caiçara villages, it is also common to see signs offering fish, affixed to the outer walls of the houses. “In general, it is the fisherman’s wife who sells the fish while he is at sea,” says the chef.
The other key choice is what to buy. How to identify fresh fish? What type of fish, crustacean or mollusc? Kept on ice or frozen?
Regarding freshness, the tips in the box on this page also apply to shrimp, octopus and squid – in particular the preference for the whole animal and the absence of unpleasant odors.
As for oysters and mussels, the shells must be firmly closed – a sign that the animal is still alive. “And try to acquire cultivated molluscs,” advises Cintia Miyaji. “The collection of wild shells is usually rudimentary, with a high chance of contamination.”
Sanitary issues also surround the choice of fish species. “Large predators accumulate many heavy metals, such as lead and mercury, from creatures below them in the food chain.”
You can eat, but it’s good to take it easy. Among the “heavy metal” species are oceanic tuna, mecca (also known as swordfish or sailfish) and large sharks – which, in life, are called sharks.
Dogfish meat also has ethical and environmental implications. Many of the shark and ray species that bear this generic trade name are threatened.
Farmed salmon is another one that should be avoided by those who are environmentally conscious. Large salmon farms leave residues of antibiotics in the ocean, and the escape of fish due to net breakage undermines the balance of endemic fauna in the farming region.
Species of great economic value, such as sea bass, grouper and abalone, leave directly from the fishing boats for the big distributors.
Therefore, there is a greater chance of taking super fresh fish when investing in animals that live close to the coast, fished and consumed by the local population. Precisely the fish caught by the floating siege of chef Eudes’ friends.”
Cintia drew up a table with the abundant species in January on the São Paulo coast: horse mackerel, sword, bonito, pirajica, pork, slipper, little needle, beaked, chubby, beautiful dog, rooster fish, pompano, mackerel. true, paru, dog’s eye and white jackfruit.
Eudes adds that the nets have also caught sororoca and croaker. And that at this time there is a crazy abundance of squid.
But not everyone is lucky enough to be close to this top premium gourmet artisan fresh fish festival. For those far from the sea, the option for the frozen product should not be discarded.
“A frozen fish on board is much fresher than a fish that has spent 15 days or more on a boat at sea, in an ice-filled hold,” says Cintia Miyaji.
“Of course, frozen food represents a gain in food security,” says Telma Shiraishi. “But there is considerable loss in texture and flavor.”
Anyway, choices. Not all can be done by others for you. Good luck with your fish!
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I am currently a news writer for News Bulletin247 where I mostly cover sports news. I have always been interested in writing and it is something I am very passionate about. In my spare time, I enjoy reading and spending time with my family and friends.
