São Paulo lost this Monday (17) an emblematic character of its gastronomy, the maître d’ Ático Alves de Souza, at the age of 95. Born in Bahia, Monte Santo, one of his first jobs in São Paulo, where he arrived in 1949, was with the Fasano family, to whose strongholds he would later return and where he ended his long career.
But it wasn’t at Confeitaria Fasano in the city center, where his work was in the office, that he became the emblematic professional of the service he would become: it was at the nearby Ca’d’Oro restaurant. Under the tutelage of the owner Fabrizio Guzzoni, Ático found himself in what would be his preferred environment from now on: the salon, in direct contact with customers.
There he made a career, starting as a busboy until he became a maître d’: the more the restaurant, in the eponymous hotel, became the most sophisticated in the city, the more it stood out, in a rise that, there alone, spanned nearly four decades.
The last 30 years have been dedicated to the Fasano group — first in the main house, and then in Parigi.
In this one, its most celebrated function was to serve the bollito misto – the Italian stew of various meats, which, as in the days of Ca’d’Oro, was brought to the table in a silver cart managed by the attentive hands of the celebrated maître d’, also famous for discretion, which is fundamental in view of the powerful range of personalities — from politics, economics, and even futile high society — that he served for so long.
Often called “your Attic” by his reverent clientele, at age 90 he had long since been retired (and several times) by the home’s owner, Gero Fasano — but he refused to stop working.
He continued to come to the restaurant, dropping in once or twice a week to honor his place beside the gleaming stew cart.
When age took its toll, he finally withdrew. Since 2019, he was no longer seen in the salon where he shone for so long – he spent 67 years spreading attention and comfort to so many people.
Last Friday (15) he was hospitalized to treat a fracture in his femur.
Back at the house, he suffered a respiratory arrest, adding to the void he had already left in the necessary hospitality so vital to our restaurants.
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I am currently a news writer for News Bulletin247 where I mostly cover sports news. I have always been interested in writing and it is something I am very passionate about. In my spare time, I enjoy reading and spending time with my family and friends.
