Opinion

Opinion – Marcelo Katsuki: Dr. Costela is the perfect getaway for lunch near SP

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Whether at the weekend or even on a working day, being able to escape the city and have lunch in an environment close to nature is a blessing. And if the food is an attraction on its own, even better. Dr. Costela has a delicious and varied buffet, it is approximately 40 km away from the capital and the journey takes around 50 minutes.

At chef Celso Frizon’s restaurant, meat is the star, but not just the ribs: the buffet has options such as pancetta and pork hamburger, termite, chicken wings and strip roast. In the shuttle service, steaks in irresistible preparations such as mustard sauce and cheese. And one of the great delicacies of the place: the polenta sporca, soft and topped with sausage ragu and melted cheese. She alone is worth the trip.

The buffet has a variety of options with salads and hot dishes, including the okra and heart of palm salad, the rib croquettes with cachaça and the perfect fries — that’s what I managed to eat. But there are still a multitude of dishes such as lasagna, pastries, fried polenta, potatoes au gratin, mayonnaise, candied garlic, roasted pumpkin and, of course, pork rinds to accompany that cold beer.

The lounge is large but I recommend the outdoor tables, at the back of the restaurant. They’re in an open, ventilated area and are quieter — if you don’t mind walking to the buffet. Next to it, a colorful castle ensures fun for children and shares the scene with an old Kombi, the first car used by the chef when he sold grape juice and bottled wine in Embu das Artes, in the 1990s.

The house rib is prepared only with coarse salt and roasted in the heat of coal for eight hours. At the buffet it is served with onions, topped with cheese or whole, being sliced ​​fresh. Do not hesitate to ask for the cut to your liking: thinner or fatter. I ordered the end of the piece, toasted, soft and juicy. The meat is replenished all the time, so help yourself to small portions to always eat warm and avoid waste. And save some space in your stomach for dessert: the cream wine sago (R$17) ends the meal with that childhood taste.

Frizon has also held events on Saturdays, when it hosts guest chefs who cook special dishes. And it is now getting ready to celebrate the house’s 30th anniversary, to be celebrated at the end of March. Merited.

Dr. Costela – little map here
Rod. Régis Bittencourt, 38,100 – Km 293.5 – Potuvera, Itapecerica da Serra – SP
Buffet: R$ 69.90 from Tuesday to Friday. R$ 98.80 on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays.
Phone: (11) 4147-1557

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