Virado has small dishes that are worth more than a penny

New in Largo do Arouche, in the central region of the capital, the Virado restaurant has a double personality — and that could be a good thing.

On the one hand, it is a simple and more affordable meal option, with basic and well-prepared dishes, in a slightly more tidy version of the traditional PF. On the other hand, it has a more modern signature cuisine, the kind that serves more creative and interesting small signature dishes.

The first side of the restaurant can be a good alternative for a quicker commercial lunch. There are very traditional options in São Paulo, such as onion steak, parmigiana fillet, grilled chicken and, only more recently, the São Paulo style that gives the house its name. Any of these dishes costs R$59 and is well made, but nothing that is too exciting.

On the hipster side, with options “to share”, the experience becomes much more attractive — even though it can be a little expensive.

That’s where the crudo is (R$40), for example, which features raw beef with capers, lemon, basil oil and tulha cheese. The portion is small, but it is exceptional and makes it worth the visit. The meat is cut into slightly larger cubes than in French versions of steak tartare, which makes the texture more striking, combining very well with the cheese. It is also accompanied by good pastries, which can serve as a vehicle to bring the meat to your mouth. It’s a good combination, but a slice of bread would also go well.

Another excellent option is the tongue tonnato (R$ 32), which is served cold and is very thinly sliced. With a delicate flavor and soft texture, it goes well with the tuna sauce, and also offers a surprise in the form of toasted hazelnuts that go on top. Maybe it’s not exactly a flaw, but the dish is served with the sauce hidden beneath the meat, so the first few bites seemed a bit dry until you got to it.

Also surprising is the plate of toasted greens (R$32), a combination of grilled split peas, green beans, broccoli and sorrel with a slightly smoked flavor. And a beautiful curd offers contrast and freshness. Someone might find it strange that they are served as the main attraction, and not as a side dish. But they deserve to be the center of attention even for carnivores.

The only disappointment among the sharing dishes tried was the wagyu shoulder (R$75). Larger than the others, it has an unattractive presentation, with the entire steak on a plate by itself. The meat was tasty, but it wasn’t as tender as one might expect. Furthermore, it was served at the wrong point, more rare than requested. It is accompanied by a good béarnaise sauce and great fries.

But creativity returns to the surface at the end of the meal, with desserts such as yogurt pudding (R$22). Very creamy, it is sweeter than the name might indicate, but it is covered with more yogurt on top, which creates a contrast with the sour, which is strange, but makes you want to eat more.

Virado is located on the ground floor of the San Raphael hotel and its chef is Benê Souza, 26 years old, who worked at Maní and Taraz and has his first solo operation there. It is a bet on the renewal of the center, an area that had been falling into disrepair in recent years and where more traditional restaurants seemed isolated, but which are now enjoying good company.