Chef’s touch in Jewish dishes justifies queues in the new phase of Z del deli

On the crowded sidewalk in front of Z Deli, Hostess estimates the waiting time in number of tables. “We are 32 in front. Want to leave the name?” He says, smiling, with a tranquility that does not match the phrase he has just spoken. “Yes, I want” leaves without thinking. And the impulse is rewarded by the realization that it is possible to start eating right there.

The tip is to stretch to abolish the bar that opens to the sidewalk. Even standing, it is comfortable touching the counter to taste the Jewish cuisine served there. In the new phase of Julio Raw’s house, ahead of Group Z Deli alongside the partner, Bruno Mester, Muvuca and the menu combine more with classes than with couples.

Better to ask for inputs and share. Like latkes (potato pancakes, $ 28), tanned manjubinha ($ 24), retailers (potato stuffed pasta, $ 36) and artichoke to Judea ($ 29). The artichokes are delicately breaded, under a rain of Pecorino and on a velvety aïoli – unfortunately without sign of the touch of anchovies described in the menu.

One more reason to go with friends is that there are more tables for four people than for two. And couples are in danger of being accommodated at the bar. It’s okay if you don’t bother to get your back to the service, which requires some contortion to place the order.

Even packed, the atmosphere is cozy – there is low, sofazinhos, velvet curtain, chandeliers and retro mirrors. High jazz raises the volume of conversations and yields a somewhat chaotic air. Despite this, the brigade remains serene, cordial and willing.

House water and cover (bagel and butter of tutano) arrive without having to ask. And are not charged. The maître comes next and indicates the main ones: Chorizo ​​steak (R $ 98), Prime Rib (R $ 188) and Farfel Caldos (pasta cooked in birds released by poultry) with duck (R $ 79).

This small dough wrapped in the thick broth contrasts with a crispy onion. At the ideal point, the pieces of duck breast crumble in the mouth. You can taste each ingredient.

It is clear that you are no longer in front of an affective kitchen, original Z Deli vocation when you opened your doors for over 40 years. The house, which was born as a small Kosher food salon by the hands of Rosa (Julio’s grandmother), Zenaide (grandmother’s aunt) and Lonka Lucki, now features an author’s kitchen-with practice by chef Benê Souza.

In this context, the Pastrami Wagyu (R $ 89) seems to be an attempt to innovate. The result is tasty, but it is not justified. If the purpose of Pastrami’s preparation days is to soften a hard meat, so that using an option that is already soft? The fries that accompanied deserved a preparation up to the kitchen.

Among the desserts, the cheesecake (R $ 38) conquers with acidic syrup that drips in the smooth, creamy, slightly salty filling. A joy.