Opinion – Terra Vegana: In war, only potatoes remain

Potato and onion patties, for years I believed they were my grandmother’s invention, but they are a typical dish in Eastern European countries, such as Ukraine (where they are known as varenyky) and Poland (where they are called pierogi).

At family gatherings, they have always been present, alongside sauerkraut, homemade sausages, homemade bread and what I’ve always called “beetroot soup”, but it’s borscht.

I didn’t realize they took so much work to prepare. The little pastries always appeared there, in front of me, wrapped in golden onions and stuffed with mashed potatoes with more onions.

All that was left for me to do was eat about seven and put my fork down, and hear the “but now, little girl?” my grandmother’s. Now I understand: when we spend hours standing in the kitchen, we want everyone to spend hours sitting down and eating. It’s the bare minimum.

So that no one gets discouraged from preparing pierogi (they are delicious, make them), I’ll reveal my aunt’s trick: the pastel dough, sold at the fair, can be used instead of homemade dough.

Magically, the countertop and ceiling filled with flour, the kneading gymnastics, the improvisation of the wine bottle in the absence of a rolling pin to roll out the dough, the glass cup and its energetic effort to form circles, all this, poof, some.

Just open the bag, use a double layer of dough to hold the filling well, and that’s it — to ensure a 100% vegetable version, don’t forget to ask the marketer what type of fat is used. Boring vegan tip: if he answers “margarine”, don’t celebrate early and follow his inquiry: “Can you tell me the brand of margarine? I need to know if it has milk in the composition, thank you”.

Google the brand and find out. By law, margarine can contain up to 3% dairy fat in the product’s total fat profile — look what a catch.

The pasta shortcut, however, is able to cut that final moment when we eat and are proud of our own creature. The “wow, I did it” can be replaced by a “congratulations team, we did it!”. If you’re going to get your hands dirty, let it be at least 4. So, yes, it’s worth it.

My grandmother’s recipe, daughter of Poles, is almost vegan. I replaced the egg with an extra spoonful of 100% vegetable margarine. In the filling, my grandmother never used cheese or pork, as they appear in some versions. Wheat, potato and onion: the triad of poor cuisine, war cuisine, resistance, inventiveness to have some pleasure while planes tear through the sky and families lose a member or all – grandparents, parents, children and grandchildren.

My grandmother’s family fled to Brazil during the First World War, and settled in the interior of Paraná, in lands that received many Poles and Ukrainians, such as Guarapuava and Ponta Grossa.

My grandmother can speak Polish to this day, although none of us do. She is 93 years old, she is absolutely lucid, but she cannot say which part of Poland her parents came from. It is a story that, like so many others, has been erased. In the end, war makes neither winners nor losers. Only potatoes remain.

pierogi

Pasta

INGREDIENTS

2 ½ cups of wheat flour.

1 glass of water.

¼ cup melted vegan butter, or 100% vegetable margarine.

1 teaspoon of salt.

Filling and toppings

INGREDIENTS

4 potatoes.

4 onions.

Sunflower oil, as much as you need.

Salt and black pepper to taste.

Scallions and vegan cheese (completely optional, to finish).

PREPARATION

1. Combine the water, vegan butter and salt in a pan. Place over medium heat to melt.
2. Add the wheat flour in a bowl. Make a hole in the middle and transfer the water and melted butter mixture. Involve with the help of a silicone spatula, making circular movements, until you form a ball. Transfer the dough to a floured worktop and knead gently for 5 minutes.
3. Make a ball with the dough and transfer to a bowl greased with oil. Brush the entire surface of the dough with oil (oil is a more sustainable alternative to plastic wrap to preserve the dough’s moisture). Let it rest for an hour.
4. Cook the potatoes until completely softened. Peel and mash. Season with a little salt and black pepper.
5. Cut the onions in half. Peel the halves and then cut into half moon strips. Lightly coat the bottom of a large skillet with sunflower oil. Bring to a boil and, when hot, add the onion. Stir from time to time, until the onion is completely golden, almost burning. Turn off the heat and season with a little salt.
6. Add ⅓ of the golden onion to the mashed potato for the filling. Mix well.
7. Divide the dough into four pieces. Roll out a piece of dough on a floured bench, with the help of a rolling pin. The dough should not be too thin. Cut circles with the help of a glass or a round cutter. In the center of each circle, add a level tablespoon of the filling. Close the dough, joining the edges in the shape of a half moon. Seal the edge well, squeezing the dough with your fingertips.
8. Repeat the previous step with the remaining three pieces of dough.
9. Bring the pastries to boil in boiling water, 6 to 8 at a time. When they rise to the surface, count another two minutes and remove from the pan with the help of a slotted spoon. Reserve on a plate.
10. The pastries are ready to be eaten, with the golden onion on top. Another possibility is to finish in the heated skillet with a little oil, on one side, to get crispy. Garnish with chives and vegan cheese and consume immediately.

TIPS

1. Leftover pasta makes a nice rustic pasta. Cut into strips and cook in boiling water for 4 minutes, drain and serve with your favorite sauce.
2. The pierogis can be frozen: shape and distribute on a board and put in the freezer without cooking beforehand. Once completely frozen, the patties can be stored in a bag.