Nathalia Durval
The opening of Caco, three weeks ago, is the materialization of an old desire of Paulista Victor Senna, 31. Ten years ago, he dropped the college of administration at USP to study gastronomy – and worked with prominent chefs in the food scene.
His first stage was in the extinct Side, with chef Thiago Maeda, Koy88, Bar Bagaceira and Krozta. He worked in other kitchens with names like Ligia Karasawa and Ivan Santinho and opened a company for events with Isabela Honda, from Joya Boulangerie.
Sacotini de Cordeiro, from Caco Restaurant, in Pinheiros –
After he found the Caco property, a house of the 1960s in Pinheiros, peeled the walls until he reached the original bricks, which are on display. He created a charming climate hall with marble tables and upholstered wine.
The jiló who used to eat in childhood appears in one of the entrances. The ingredient loses the bitterness and is gratin with miso and honey, served with sesame and mustard (R $ 46). Senna’s career exchange was the influence of her grandmother, cook, and the mother who replicated her recipes. “I was a child who liked to eat jiló and broccoli. Among friends, I always had the barbecue.”
Another choice to start work at the restaurant are lamb meatballs with tomato sauce, feta cheese, pecorino, herbal salad and focaccia (R $ 67).
Lamb meat also becomes a ragu that stuffs sacottini (a mass), served with Demi Glace and mint oil ($ 74). The fresh pasta made in the house are one of the highlights of the kitchen. Another suggestion is the mezzaluna stuffed with ricotta and tulha cheese from Atalaia and Fior di Latte farm, accompanied by demi glace of vegetables, toasted walnuts and spinach on the ember (R $ 72).
The desserts do not weigh on sugar, such as banoffee with Zabaione da Casa (R $ 39) and Mil-Folhas with Ganache White chocolate mounted with black tea, plus gel and orange supreme (R $ 42).
To drink, a wine list highlights the natural labels, some served in a cup from R $ 38. The bartender Thatta Kimura, from the bar inside, signs the copyrighted drinks, such as the thousand leaves (R $ 38), which carries vodka, red, Fat Wash of ricotta and nuts.
Choose from the various environments to accommodate, such as the counter to the kitchen or the porch in the open.
Sharp
R. Artur Azevedo, 496, Pinheiros, West Region, WhatsApp (11) 97052-9007, @caco.sp
Source: Folha
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