In Borgo Mooca, Hype does not become good food

“Your choice of time, from 19h or 19h30, will allow a permanence until 9:30 pm.”

The “important warning” was sent by WhatsApp by Borgo Mooca after the reserve confirmation. It sounds rude and the impulse is to clear it. But then you reconside. Maybe the food is so good that you want to break into the kitchen, lick the Demi-Glace pan and live there forever.

This idea gains strength when you read the menu. The pantheon of the noble ingredients is almost all there: truffles, foie gras, vieiras, meat wagyu. High expectations settle.

Then comes the first request: Cruuda & Vol-Au-Vent (R $ 88). A beautiful healed gem crown this entrance of cubed fillet-mignon cut into creamy cheese and porcini mushroom powder.

High expectations multiply. But then you start chewing. And everything seems to have the same texture. The puff pastry is almost as cold as the rest, and lack crispness. The result is nauseating. And the expectations wither. But it may have been a punctual failure. So, to the dishes!

The Wellington steak ($ ​​158) sounds like a necessary choice. First, because it is a paradigm of gastronomic care, usually made by chefs who can prove they are capable.

The main challenges in the preparation of this dish are not to soak the puff pastry that surrounds the meat, and hit the cooking point – with the red and juicy interior.

During the visit, the recipe also stood out in the menu with two other options – prepared with foie gras ($ 228) and another with foie gras and truffles ($ 280). The first version, which was chosen, arrives at the table with good presentation. Inside, the point is correct and the meat does not soak the puff pastry. But the qualities end there.

The protein comes cold and lacks juiciness. The texture is borrrachenta, hard to chew. The presumed humidity of the poor fillet-mignon seems to have been sucked, and expectations become disappointment.

In the mass sector, the experience is similar. Raviolo de cod (R $ 98) has fresh pasta, made in the house. The yolk flows gracefully in the first cut. But the stuffing of cod chips described in the menu seems to be alone in the promise.

Figure as a cream that may have been made with a shredded cod. The highlight of the dish, ironically, is due to the two chamuscades broccoli that accompanies it. Tasty and crispy.

At the end of the meal, the kitchen reminds you of the message sent at the time of reservation. Not that this is unusual practice, it has only been done in a deductive way, that it sounds pretentious – a climate that is destroying comments and cool posts on social networks.

As for the limit time to leave the house? He was not mentioned by the service, by the way, friendly and attentive. At 9:30 pm, the house had only 6 of the 15 tables occupied.