Nathalia Durval
Those who pass in front of the first botequin on any weekend need to cross a sea of people who occupy the sidewalk. If you choose to cross the street, you will find the same movement on the corner of the backyard. At the end of the block, the hype continues in Santokki.
In addition to the disputed tables, what these bars and restaurants have in common is the command of chefs Julia Tricate, 29, and Gabriel Coelho, 36, a duo that has dominated a piece of Vila Madalena.

Chefs Julia Tricate and Gabriel Coelho at the counter of the first tavern, in Vila Madalena –
Rubens Kato/Disclosure
They met in the kitchen of the Pipo restaurant, chef Felipe Bronze, in Rio de Janeiro, where they worked. They engaged a relationship. Following a dream of rabbit, they went to work a season in the Danish Noma, already elected the best restaurant in the world. “It was perrengue, but we learned a lot,” says Tricate.
The experiences showed that, besides the relationship, working together worked. They decided to extend this partnership and start the first business. They inaugurated Monday, in Brazilian food, in 2021, with the economies they gathered. The neighborhood chosen was another, Itaim Bibi, where they live.
The house was a first success. The profit made it possible to start the second deal, just six months later. Restless, they found a property in Vila Madalena and gave life to the first tavern, with typical snacks with chef’s touch. The success was repeated – but Bruno Mars has been to eat there.
In 2023, they opened the backyard from the front, focused on the dishes on the ember. This was not even in the plans, says Coelho. “There was a beer that came out and I didn’t want it to open another bar in front of us,” he says. “It was to get our own line,” adds Tricate.
At first, the chef was reluctant to go to Vila Madalena. “It had the vision of those huge bars that play countryman and serve chips,” he explains. The point at the time was a little deserted, but the scenario became and today that stretch of Aspicuelta Street is agitated. “This movement began before us and we gave more strength,” says Tricate.
- Vila Madalena, bohemian neighborhood in SP, lives a new phase of restaurants and cocktail bars
Profits allowed you to start the next business without having to resort to investments. The most recent, Santokki, was inaugurated in February and cost $ 1.25 million. The menu is of Asian inspiration and has already packed the hall.
But what is the secret to houses with so much search? One of them is the recognition won with the culinary reality shows victory. Coelho beat the master of flavor in 2019, and Tricate was champion of The Taste Brazil 2017, at 21.
They also had some godparents: Chef Claude Troisgros, presenter of the Master of Sabor, and Ricardo Sayon, founder of Ri Happy and friend of the couple, who gave tips and encouraged them not to attach to partners.
Most importantly, chefs have tino for what is on the rise in the gastronomic scene. They surfed in the fashion of hipsters pubs and Asian restaurants.
In addition, they have a strong presence on social networks, sharing backstage and trends. Tricate adds a people management plan – all over, manage 70 employees.
The couple divides to work every week in the kitchens and maintain the movement. And do they have a next restaurant on the way? “The fifth is a son,” jokes Coelho. “Let’s take care of those who are already open,” adds Tricate.
Botequin
R. Aspicuelta, 271, Vila Madalena, @depressira.botequim
Second
R. Prof. Tamandaré Toledo, 160, Itaim Bibi, @degunda.Restaurante
First -rate backyard
R. Aspicuelta, 268, Vila Madalena, @quintal.deprimeira
Santokki
R. Aspicuelta, 153, Vila Madalena, @santokki.restaurante
Source: Folha
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