Crack has potential, but it lacks consistency to the menu

The first item of the crack menu, in Pinheiros, leaves doubt. It is there: natural fermentation bread (R $ 18). Cheap for a whole bread, expensive for a slice. And of course the menu refers to the slice. You decide you won’t ask. Also, if you want a little olive oil to accompany, you will pay another $ 8.

Then you jump this and go to the other items. And it finds that only two options come with some carbohydrate: the cheese board (R $ 72) and the pissaladière (a puff pastry with caramelized onion, confirmed tomatoes and anchovy; R $ 47).

The cheese board, in fact, is a minitaba. And the bread that accompanies her, in fact, is half bread. If you are accompanied, you urge you to ask for an extra slice – that, that $ 18.

The home proposal follows the increasingly common dynamic of sharing dishes. The idea is to ask several and prove a little of everything, as in a tongue menu where the customer decides what will be served.

Taking various flavors and textures is a great idea. But it brings the challenge of setting up a satisfactory sequence without knowing what exactly will arrive at the table. Also, it is harder to control spending. Especially in a restaurant whose options are tasty, but unprantasive.

The menu is divided into two: “From our bar” and “from our kitchen”. In addition to the cheese with half bread, in the first part there is a portion of quail eggs with dashi vinegar (R $ 26), another salami (R $ 38), a nice siri sustained (R $ 32) and marinated vegetables (R $ 39).

The latter comes with roasted red peppers, toasted jilo-that the flavor of balsamic acet gains excess of protagonism-skinless cherry tomatoes with a basil leaflet on top of each, and butter. It gives a certain discouragement. And again, you get to ask for a slice of bread – eighteen reais.

To try to escape from it, the part of the menu that offers more restaurants than bar brings the lisaladière. A pleasant surprise of textures and flavors. A first clue that chef Carol Albuquerque’s potential is far ahead of the menu imbalance.

Pancetta ($ 56) confirms this feeling. Excellent, it is served in a delicious oriental broth with marinated raw vegetables. It makes you think of how experienced the experience could be more enjoyable if in that broth they had plunged a generous portion of Udon.

The only dessert (R $ 36) mixes chocolate, peanuts, salty caramel and vanilla ice cream. With so many strong ingredients, it surprised by the balance and lightness. It is worth proving each layer separately and then in the whole work.

The minimalism of the menu mirrors in the environment. Simple tables, paper napkins and no decoration, in a small room open to the sidewalk. What in cold days can generate discomfort.

In the end, it is the impression that some necessary adjustments in the environment and menu can turn the crack into a restaurant of excellence.