Thomas Troisgros hits when serving dishes without affectation at Toto, in Ipanema

A relatively recent inauguration (opened at the end of 2023), Toto is Thomas Troisgros’s first solo restaurant. This means that the chef, son of Claude and grandson of legendary Pierre Troisgros, one of the creators of Nouvelle Cuisine French, had his chance – and freedom – to risk an authorial proposal and show that the last name has not weighed. It has been working.

In his well -thought business, Thomas makes it clear that he is not a nepobaby (or neponeto) in offering dishes without affectation, in which he combines French techniques with an Asian influence here, a foot in Brazilianness, without fear of crossing any border.

It also nods the tavern food, for example, as it serves as a portion of chicken hearts (R $ 50). His comes with oyster sauce and chiller.

It is in the details that some dishes stand out, such as the very Peruvan Fish Ceviche (R $ 58), a classic of the Troisgros in other restaurants. On the day of the visit, the fish was the lily (from the same family as the Boy and Xaréu), with purple potato and crispy green beans.

The “crispy” is not mere rhetoric, menu chat: small toasted grains are a hit on the plate, which had the acidity of tiger milk at the right point and varied textures. Perfect would be if corn tortillas were not industrialized, as the waiter said.

The prices practiced in the restaurant are fair to what it offers, and the cost-effectiveness can be explained in part by the operation of the business: Toto is on the first floor of a big house, and just above OSEILLE, with the concept of haute gastronomy and already on the list of starring Michelin guide. The strategy of having two restaurants at the same address was intelligent.

Returning to the dishes, one of the hits of the entrances is the roasted rib guioza, ponzu sauce and watercress (R $ 30, three units). The Chinese pastry comes gold on the outside and the ponzu, harmonious between the citrus and the salty. Very good.

The traditional Steak Tartare with fries (R $ 58) was not overlooked. He takes a sprinkled croûtons and was tasty on the first visit, but a little heavier in the second. The chips are frozen, which I regretted.

Even when the option falls on classic dishes, there is constant news in the ingredients of Toto, case of fillet-mignon to the poivre (R $ 108). It comes with fries… but it is the orange sweet potato, cut into a finger width, pleasant surprise.

Thomas has said that she serves dishes she likes to eat there, and the fresh pappardelle with meat ragu ($ 72) is one of them. The bovine chest cooked in the wine, abundant under the pasta, comes with some baked cherry tomatoes and parsley. Uncomplicated and without fashion invention, it is one of Toto’s bestsellers, and can maintain its regularity: it was very good at both home visits in different months.

Equally simple and tasty was the rib rice (R $ 82) with Tahine’s Aïoli, which also takes honey and miso. The apple pie with mascarpone (R $ 30), with butter and crispy pasta with creamy cheese, very fresh and cold, was the happy ending of the meal.