Ping Yang’s cuisine would be memorable if dishes had clearer explanations

Complicated names, spicy dishes, service that is more direct than friendly, an atmosphere that is more noisy than welcoming. For Ping Yang this is a successful combination. Not exactly because of the sum of these ingredients, but because of chef Maurício Santi’s surprising and far from stereotyped Thai cuisine.

The house charges R$50 at the time of booking (the amount is refunded when the customer shows up). An understandable measure that some restaurants use to avoid empty tables and losses, but from the customer’s side it doesn’t exactly sound like a welcome hug. Along the way, there is the possibility of entering the virtual waiting period, for a fee of R$8.90. The feeling is that the place has reached that level where a certain arrogance becomes charm.

The menu is divided into six types of preparation, all with recipes to share. The waiter recommends that you try one of each option. It looks great, but, from plate to plate, the bill becomes expensive. The tip is to go in a group to taste a little of everything. Not in a very large group, as the restaurant does not serve a table of more than six people.

The next recommendation was to leave the curry for last, as it was “stronger and more spicy”. So we ordered the miang kham goon (R$70) to start, attracted by the description on the menu, which said: “I can’t explain it, it’s Thailand in one bite with Bahia orange and shrimp farofa”. We hugged everything with the chaplu leaf (a typical plant of the country) that came underneath and bit down heartily. It was so spicy, I could barely appreciate it.

In addition to the warning that was not given, it would have been prudent to suggest a more appropriate drink than the water we were drinking and which, of course, only increased the burning sensation. Water, in fact, costs R$10 per person to be replenished throughout dinner.

Next came the lin wua ping (R$32), beef tongue skewers with khao kua farofa (rice flour), which gives a slightly toasted touch, and… peppers, of course. But this time in a pleasurable way. It’s a shame that the meat was unevenly cooked, with half of the skewer more grilled than the other.

The kho moo yang (R$75) was the best choice. You assemble your own mouthfuls of pork meat and rice over fresh leaves. It is then dipped in a sauce that combines acidity and sweetness.

The pla neung tau jiaw (R$98) is a fish prepared steamed with fermented soybeans, soy sauce and chard. Soft and delicate, but not especially tasty.

Finally it was curry’s turn. We chose the version with vegetables and mushrooms, called gaeng deng jay (R$98). Complex but smooth, it could easily have been ordered before, differently from what was advised.

There is only one dessert, the kanom tom (R$39). The balls filled with cocada are made with a glutinous rice dough that yields a texture similar to mochi. About coconut milk, it’s a sweet treat that takes you out of your comfort zone.

The feeling of taking a journey through such different flavors is worth the visit. That night, what was missing for a truly memorable dinner was more clarity in explaining the dishes, something that goes beyond listing the ingredients or preparation techniques.