In the small and peaceful town of Cambará do Sul, in the Campos de Cima da Serra region, just over 230 km north of Porto Alegre, tourists who love gastronomic adventures can hunt for edible mushrooms in the middle of the pine forest, and then taste them right there, in their natural habitat.
The activity is developed by the glamping Parador (the word comes from the mixture of “camping” and “glamour”), located near the Aparados da Serra and Serra Geral National Parks, close to the Itaimbezinho and Fortaleza canyons.
The hunt lasts about 1h30min and can be booked by the guests themselves between the months of May and June, every day of the week.
The search for fungi that sprout quickly in damp soil or on tree trunks, after a period of rain and sun, is still an authentic outdoor biology class, always monitored by a professional.
Aboard a single or double quad bike, a guide takes the hunters into the pine forests. During the tour, the tourist learns to identify the different species of fungi [venenosos ou comestíveis], how they develop and their functions in nature. The tasting of the collected fungi is done on site.
”The main mushroom found here in the region is porcini. We managed to collect a lot, but it takes good training before you go hunting alone. The ideal thing is for the interested tourist to take a training course to know how to identify mushrooms and their characteristics well,” advises chef Rodrigo Bellora, who has been in gastronomy for 20 years.
In addition to light clothes and a cap, it is also recommended that adventurers carry a waterproof jacket or raincoat in their backpacks, as the weather in the Serra Gaúcha changes quickly and can be surprising.
A good pair of sneakers with non-slip soles or specific boots for trails also help giving stability, grip and safety when walking.
In addition to the wild mushroom hunt, it is also possible to participate in the ”Wild Mushroom Awakening”. The seasonal gastronomic event takes place from May 24 to 26 and from June 21 to 23, and brings together specialized chefs and biologists in a three-day itinerary.
The idea is to present more in depth the varieties of fungi that inhabit the pine forests and, later on, offer tourists haute cuisine dishes made with them.
This is the case, for example, of the bean tabbouleh, a mix of seasoned gaucho beans, sliced mushrooms, walnuts, olive oil and herbs, and the pine nut gnocchi with porcini fungi.
Biologist Jeferson Müller Timm, 40, an expert in mushrooms, says that there are at least three types of fungi in the exotic pine forest in the region, including porcini (ticket edulis), The Suílus spp and lactaries delicious.
”There are many species of mushrooms that are toxic and can even kill, as is the case with the fungus Amanita phalloids, known as ‘green hemlock’ or ‘angel of death'”, warns the expert.
The species is native to Europe, but can also be found in the Americas, including in countries such as Argentina and Uruguay. In Rio Grande do Sul, however, its appearance is rare.
Regarding the collection and handling of edible fungi, Jeferson recommends that, when carrying out the hunting activity, tourists cut the mushroom base with scissors and remove the soil with a brush before placing it in the basket.
”That way you don’t take dirt into the basket. It’s not cool to wash the mushroom, because it absorbs a lot of water and ends up losing texture and flavor. By using the basket, we encourage its seeds to disperse along the way, allowing the birth of new mushrooms,” he explains.
Another advice from the biologist is to consume, preferably, the cooked fungus.
In addition to composing tasty dishes, it is also possible to create other types of food such as cookies, salt and even olive oil. These edible fungi have a good amount of proteins, vitamins, mainly B2, B3 and B5 and C, antioxidants and fiber.
In Cambará do Sul, in addition to mushrooms, another attraction is the pinhão — more specifically the traditional paçoca de pinhão. With thousands of hectares of araucaria forest, the location makes it easy to find the seed scattered throughout the forest, especially in autumn, harvest time.
”Very enjoyed at June festivals, pine nuts can be made in several ways, whether cooked, roasted or added to various culinary recipes”, comments chef Rodrigo Bellora.
Another custom in the Serrana region of Rio Grande do Sul is to eat the ”sapecada de pinhão”, a heritage of the tropeiros — men who led the troop, taking the cattle from one place to another. In other words, it is the pine nut prepared in the bush, on the pine stubs.
”It is enough to gather the residues of dry branches of the araucaria, place the pine nuts collected in the forest and, then, light a fire. This habit of eating pine nuts was inherited from some indigenous tribes here in the region, such as the Caingangues, and it also serves as food for many animals”, explains Bellora.
For the pine nut to cook fully, you must light the fire on the top of the branches [de cima para baixo]. Then, just remove the shell with the help of a hammer or even with a stone and be careful not to burn yourself.
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