Lying on the ground, leaning against the pilasters, the pilgrims make the historic center of Santiago de Compostela, a World Heritage Site and capital of Galicia, in northwest Spain, a space for contemplation.
The nine recognized paths to get there are marked in Praça do Obradoiro, coming from the four corners and joined in the center by the last scallop shell, a symbol that guides pilgrims throughout the journey.
The atmosphere is blissful. There are those who risk a triumphant pose, lifting their bicycles to the skies, or make the scene the stage for a marriage proposal, bringing smiles to their eyes and lips.
But the star in this scenario is the exuberant Cathedral of Santiago, built in 1075, a mixture of architectural styles inside and out, where the crypt in which Santiago, disciple of Jesus and patron of Spain, is buried. The visit is breathtaking.
In the 9th century, when the pilgrimage began to arrive there and venerate it, the crossing was full of mishaps and, for many, synonymous with sacrifice.
One thousand and two hundred years later, there is a wide specialized network to make the pilgrim’s life easier and services such as the transport of luggage at the cost of 4 euros (R$ 21) via mail, in addition to several possibilities to follow the route: on foot, by bike, horseback, train or boat.
Even those who are not card-carrying athletes have time and can split the stages towards Santiago according to the time available. For hikers, having a margin of days for unforeseen events is advisable.
The first cultural itinerary in Europe is a darling of Brazilians, the tenth country with the most pilgrims to Santiago in 2019 and the only Latin American representative in the top 10. religious reasons and many others.
At Xacobeu, or Jacobeu Year, when the 25th of July, Santiago’s day, falls on a Sunday, the route takes on even more special airs.
In addition to various events, in it the holy door of the Cathedral of Santiago opens and devout pilgrims can enjoy a plenary indulgence, the forgiveness of all sins.
With the pandemic, for the first time Xacobeu is celebrated in two years, 2021-2022, and it is worth taking advantage of the temperatures of the European spring, which extends until June 20.
The French Way, the most famous of the routes and a heritage of humanity, offers a walk through the centuries that has as its starting point the medieval Saint Jean Pied de Port, in the southwest of France.
From there, 777 km are covered in 33 days, but if you want a shortcut closer to Madrid, start in charming Burgos, which shortens the journey by 12 days.
From there, prepare for a journey in which the silence is broken by the singing of birds, the green fields continue as far as the eye can see and the plane trees with still-dry branches give the landscape the appearance of paintings outside the canvas.
The restaurants and bars are close to the medieval portals of the millenary city. If the 16th century Santa Maria Arch already impresses, when crossing it comes a sigh of admiration in front of the grandiose Cathedral of Santa Maria, a world heritage site.
The Gothic temple built from 1221 onwards is a gallery with floor-to-ceiling works, such as the dome of the central nave over the tomb of the warrior El Cid, the golden Renaissance staircase by Diego de Siloé, model of the Paris Opera and the friendly figure of the flycatcher, which every hour rings the bell with its mouth open.
The visit is a sample of the historical dive, through monuments and ruins, that mark the route through the region of Castile and Leon, northwest of Spain. The walk follows the back roads, where in a few minutes pilgrims from Colombia, South Africa and European countries pass.
To slow down after going up and down the alleys of Castrojeriz, the calm boat trip along the Castilla Canal, in Frómista, in the province of Palencia, offers a breather before discovering the famous Church of San Martín, from the 11th century, a translation of the style. Romanesque, with its rustic walls.
As you get lost in the alleys of León, it is possible to hear rock music coming from a pub in front of the walls that surround the city, mixing with the childish laughter of students leaving the schools a few meters from the Cathedral of Santa María de Regla, another Gothic temple in the 13th century.
With one of the most important collections of stained glass in the world, along with Chartres Cathedral in France, it is not for nothing that it is called the house of light. The feeling there is of walking towards infinity through shades of blue, red, purple, yellow.
Leão also bears the mark of Gaudí, who in 1892 designed the Casa Botines, and the gem-encrusted goblet of the Infanta Dona Urraca, kept in the San Isidoro Museum, one of the relics considered to be the Holy Grail.
Another mandatory stop in the region is the monumental Castle of the Templars, in Ponferrada, which had most of its imposing stone walls erected in the 15th century and holds ruins from the times of the Catholic warriors of the Crusades, a treasure ignored in the mid-1920s, when tried to make a football field there.
In the same historical atmosphere, we advance to Galicia. The Celtic music that comes from souvenir shops sets the tone for the village of O Cebreiro, in Lugo, which preserves pre-Romanesque buildings, one of which is a museum that helps to get an idea of what life was like inside the straw and stone huts. The mountain up there is among the most challenging stretches for pilgrims.
In the village is the Church of Santa Maria, which keeps the relics of the miracle in which the wine and the host consecrated by the unbelieving priest turned into blood and flesh before the faith of a peasant, in the year 1300.
The Portuguese Way also passes through Galicia, a 571 km journey from Lisbon. The Spanish air presents itself in the form of a breeze to those who cross from Valença to Tui through the international bridge over the waters of the River Minho.
Walking through Galicia gives the opportunity to admire the blue tones from the sea to the sky from unique scenarios, such as the ruins of the castro de Santa Trega, a village from the 1st century BC, at 341 meters of altitude, in Guarda, in the province from Pontevedra.
Two churches to visit on the way are the Sanctuary of the Pilgrim Virgin, a small temple dedicated to travelers amidst the bustling historic center of Pontevedra, and the Church of Santiago, in Padrón, home of writers Rosalía de Castro and Camilo José Cela.
Among devotees, it is believed that the stone that can be seen on its altar was used to tie the boat that transported Santiago’s body.
While all the paths end in Santiago de Compostela, one of them, the Finisterre and Muxía Way, begins there towards A Coruña, a route of about 90 km of pure beauty, starting with the Maceira bridge, with its arches of stone surrounded by waterfalls amidst the green of trees and bushes.
The Cape of Finisterre was what the Romans believed to be the westernmost place on earth, the very end of the world.
It is not, but the mystical atmosphere on the hill, marked by the statue of the bronze boot and the stone from km 0, is an invitation to contemplate the sunset, on the edge of the cliffs, or to spread the towel for a picnic on the carpet of flowers. yellow, feeling time change the rhythm.
Speaking of the history of time, the square that precedes the walkway is named after the physicist Stephen Hawking, who defined the end of the world as “a beautiful place”. Yes, he was right. About 30 km away, the flight of seagulls splashes white the blue sky above another lighthouse, that of Muxía, where, surrounded by rocks, is the Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora da Barca.
It was in this environment, where the silence is broken by the sea hitting the rocks, that according to local tradition, Santiago had a vision of the Virgin, who in a stone boat encouraged him to follow his path. According to pilgrims, this is the only way the path ends and the invitation to return remains.
Guide to the Camino de Santiago
How much does the Camino de Santiago cost?
There are several websites, such as El Camino de Santiago, Pilgrim, Gali.com Wonders, Tee Travel and Art Natura, which allow you to budget according to the route and the way you choose to travel.
A simulation done by Sheet on the Pilgrim website for a trip from June 4th, from Sain Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela, lasting 34 nights and accommodation with breakfast can start from 2,985 euros (R$ 15,613), with optional backpack transport services for 170 euros (R$ 889.22) and cancellation insurance for 140 euros (R$ 732.30) included.
How much time do I need to book?
It depends on the number of stages and the way chosen to make the journey, but it is possible to calculate from the agencies’ websites, which also show how many kilometers will need to be covered per day. In the simulation made for the French Way by Sheetthe trip would last 34 days.
What is the best time of year for this trip?
May and June are good months to make the journey, due to the slightly milder temperatures in spring.
How does the baggage transport service work?
The service can be hired on the agencies’ website, when closing the package. In the simulation performed by Sheetthe package for 34 days was 170 euros (R$ 889.22)
What are the options for taking the route?
In addition to the traditional pilgrimage on foot, the pilgrim can also go to Santiago by bicycle or horseback. For those looking for a faster trip, it is possible to take the Peregrino Train from Madrid in the European summer. At the same time, it is possible to take part in the sailing route, with the Northmarinas association, which carries out the “Navega el camino”.
