“Saint Laurent unveils his new collection in a masterpiece of modernism, the Neue Nationalgalerie of Berlin, the last major project designed by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe». With this modest phrase, the fashion house announced the show of the Spring-Summer 2024 men’s collection, which took place on the 12th of the month. “The iconic pavilion is a fitting backdrop for Anthony Vaccarello’s continued reimagining of Saint Laurent’s key themes with approachability and comfort befitting life today“, they underlined from the house.

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The setting for the show was extremely minimalistic. The interior of the upper level of the pavilion is a largely single space surrounded by a glass facade in metal frames. Heavy gray curtains were hung from the steel ceiling beams, dividing the exhibition space in two and defining the catwalk space on the west side of the building; additional gray curtains also covered the north-facing sides of the glass facade and south. Consequently, the audience’s gaze was directed towards the building’s sculpture garden on the lower level, the view of which was partially blocked by a large lightbox outside the pavilion which was used to illuminate the interior.

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Mies van der Rohe’s famous Barcelona stools, upholstered in black leather, were placed on the perimeter of the upper floor of the pavilion and served as seats for Saint Laurent’s guests and as a unique – along with the curtains – decoration. The models came out of an opening in the curtains and crossed the space zigzagging between the marble walls that as “facilities” exist inside.