The “brain” behind the elaborate costumes in George Lanthimos’ new film, “Poor Things” is Holly Waddington. Speaking to “Stylist,” Waddington opened up about the process of creating the costumes, explaining her vision and the unique challenge of designing clothes for a character with a child’s mind in an adult’s body, set in the 19th century.

This adaptation of Alasdair Gray’s novel stars Bella Baxter (Emma Stone), who undergoes a transformation when a mad scientist, “God” (Willem Dafoe), replaces her brain with that of her unborn child. Reborn after her attempted suicide, Bella, now in her 30s, must relearn basic human functions from scratch, despite her adult appearance.

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Waddington’s approach to Bella’s costumes manages to bring out this special cinematic character in a unique way. Bella’s richly layered, ruffled, and voluminous-sleeve outfits beautifully encapsulate her journey of self-discovery and growth, following the film’s narrative.

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Waddington explains: “My goal was to understand Bella’s psychological state. It was a puzzle to figure out how a grown woman would wear and interact with grown-up clothes while still having the mind of a child.”. Waddington was inspired by how young children dress and the inevitable mayhem that ensues. Bella’s clothes, often mismatched and worn in the “wrong” way, reflect this childlike innocence.

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Late 19th-century fashion heavily influenced the film’s aesthetic, particularly in the isolated setting of “God’s” house. “Bella’s attire is laden with elaborate features such as feathers, embellishments and lace, ‘playing’ with themes of exploitation”, notes Waddington. It emphasizes the texture of Bella’s costumes, aiming to convey a sense of life and breath. The clothes feature curvaceous shapes and airy sleeves, enhancing her rejuvenated presence.

The film’s narrative also explores Bella’s sexual awakening and the visual representation of that awakening through costume design. “For the scenes shot in black and white, I focused on creating textured clothing that would make them stand out”says Waddington. “When Bella moves to Lisbon with Duncan (Mark Ruffalo), the film takes on color, reflecting her expanding world.”

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Waddington humorously describes one of Bella’s staple pieces of clothing, the “coat with the condom”, used during a scene in Paris. Despite the complexity of Bella’s wardrobe design, Waddington admits it was difficult to maintain costume continuity throughout the film. “The evolution of Bella’s clothing paralleled her story arc”he confesses.

Towards the end of the film, Bella’s clothing becomes more practical, reflecting her maturation and social consciousness.

In stark contrast to Bella’s vibrant clothes, Victoria, Bella’s previous identity, is dressed in strict, stiff and gloomy dresses, symbolizing her repressed life before the transformation.

One look at the film is enough to convince you that Holly Waddington’s elaborate costumes go hand in hand with the character “born” by George Lanthimos, highlighting Bella’s unique story to the maximum.