Retinol and vitamin C help treat and prevent wrinkles in the eye area

by

Do eye creams really prevent wrinkles?

Whether it’s due to aging, sun exposure, smoking, or the habit of squinting frequently when smiling or frowning, no one is immune from developing the creases and fine lines in the skin that appear with age.

And the area around the eyes is especially susceptible to these changes. “The skin under and around the eyes is delicate and thinner,” explained Sara Perkins, a professor of dermatology at the Yale University School of Medicine in the United States. “It’s an area where wrinkles and lines appear more visibly than others.”

While some people don’t really care about wrinkles in the corners of their eyes, others may want to slow down this aging process and keep their skin looking younger. They may ask themselves: do those little and expensive eye cream pots are worth it? See what the experts say.

Do anti -aging creams generally work?

According to Perkins and Zakia Rahman, a clinical professor of dermatology at Stanford University, there is evidence that eye creams — and even common facial moisturizers — can help prevent and repair wrinkles. But there’s one big catch: they need to contain some essential active ingredients — retinols (or prescription retinoids) or vitamin C.

“In terms of the effectiveness of eye creams, it is not fair to put everyone in the same bag,” Perkins said. “Some of them may just be more ‘fancy’ moisturizers, but without biologically active ingredients.”

Retinols and retinoids are closely related chemical compounds derived from vitamin A. Retinoids are usually sold with a prescription, while retinols are found in over-the-counter products. These products can increase cell turnover, prevent collagen breakdown, produce new collagen, and create more hyaluronic acid (a substance the body naturally produces and helps keep skin hydrated).

Experts say there is good evidence that these compounds help prevent and smooth out wrinkles. “Every dermatologist I know, including myself, uses these products as part of their skin care routine,” Rahman said.

The two dermatologists pointed out that retinoids and retinoids – but especially the latter, which is more potent – ​​can cause skin irritation, which should subside over time. If you’re going to buy an over-the-counter retinol product, Perkins recommends something that has at least between 0.25% and 1% retinol.

Perkins cautioned that these products can aggravate sunburn, which is why she recommends applying them at night and using sunscreen during the day. She also mentioned that the products are less effective when exposed to sunlight. And both experts pointed out that pregnant women should not use products containing retinol or retinoids.

There is also moderate evidence that topical vitamin C helps to inhibit or smooth out wrinkles. “It’s a powerful antioxidant,” Rahman said — that is, vitamin C neutralizes free radicals, harmful molecules that can damage the skin. It also helps with collagen production. But Perkins noted that while there is compelling evidence that topical vitamin C helps fight wrinkles, the data in favor of retinols and retinoids are more robust.

If you’re going to choose between the two options, both dermatologists recommended that you choose a retinol or retinoid, not topical vitamin C. As is the case with retinols and retinoids, vitamin C has the potential to irritate the skin.

Experts also said there is evidence that skin care products containing hyaluronic acid can improve the appearance of the skin. This ingredient can fluff the skin, giving it a more youthful look. But these effects are only temporary, according to the two.

“There is data indicating that hyaluronic acid improves the appearance of thin lines and wrinkles,” Perkins said. But “it works differently, hydrating the skin, and it doesn’t act at the molecular level” like the other active ingredients mentioned above.

Are they better than moisturizers for preventing wrinkles?

“Eye creams are one of the things that irritate me the most,” Perkins said, explaining that the ingredients in these products are often the same as those found in facial moisturizers.

Rahman agreed. Eye creams can be a little thicker or have lower intensity active ingredients than other facial skin care products, as they are designed to be used on sensitive eyelid skin. But “they tend to cost more per gram than regular face moisturizers, and in many cases don’t have very different ingredients,” she said, revealing that she herself uses regular face moisturizer for the area around her eyes.

Is it worth buying a cream for the eye area?

Unless you have a preference for a special eye care product, a regular face moisturizer that contains the above-mentioned active ingredients should work just as well against wrinkles.

If you buy an eye cream with these ingredients, you’ll probably just pay more for a lower-volume product that will have similar benefits. But don’t expect a miracle with any of these products, and results can take time to show. “Effects take months, not days” to show, Rahman said.

What is the best method to prevent wrinkles in the eye area? The two dermatologists are unequivocal: using sunscreen is essential.

Translation Clara Allain

You May Also Like

Recommended for you

Immediate Peak