Brazilians are eating more ultra-processed foods. But the good news is that, at least for the time being, the custom of “real food” still prevails in the country, culinary preparations with natural or minimally processed foods, such as milk, flour and rice.
The scenario of expansion of ultra-processed products, however, is worrying, according to experts.
This is the conclusion of a study by researchers Nupens (Nucleus for Epidemiological Research in Nutrition and Health/USP) and UFMG (Federal University of Minas Gerais) recently published in the Revista de Saúde Pública.
For the study, the scientists used data from the IBGE (Brazilian Institute of Geography and Statistics) Family Budget Surveys, which correspond to the period from 1987 to 2018. They looked at the products that were purchased by families, not consumption itself. of food, although, logically, the two actions have correlations.
As a result, they were able to group the items possibly consumed based on the Nova classification, developed at Nupens itself —and used and recognized internationally— and which divides foods into four groups: in natura or minimally processed; processed ingredients (such as olive oil, butter, and sugar); processed foods (such as canned vegetables, cheeses and artisan breads); and ultra-processed foods and beverages.
Eating anything excessively is harmful. But, in general terms, it is in the last group, the ultra-processed products, with their additives, that the biggest problem resides. In this class are soft drinks, dairy drinks, margarines, packaged snacks, sweets, ice cream, packaged breads and an endless list of products.
There is already a considerable and still growing scientific literature that points out the risks involved in consuming a greater volume of ultra-processed foods, such as cancers, diabetes and other chronic diseases.
In the IBGE budget survey carried out in the 2017-2018 period, the most recent available, almost 49% of the calories available in homes throughout Brazil came from in natura foods. or minimally processed. Another 32% were derived from processed ingredients and foods. Finally, about 19% came from ultra-processed products.
“Brazil has a very deep-rooted food culture and this encourages us to maintain a diet based on culinary preparations”, says Renata Levy, one of the authors of the study and a researcher at Nupens. “There are situations like the United Kingdom and the United States where 60% of food comes from ultra-processed foods.”
Despite the still predominant Brazilian culture of homemade food, the situation has changed over the decades. Ultra-processed foods have taken their place in the lives of Brazilians, while the consumption of in natura/minimally processed foods (known as group 1 of the Nova classification) has decreased.
According to Nupens research, considering only the metropolitan regions in the country, in 30 years, the ultra-processed (group 4 of the Nova classification) went from 10% and jumped to almost 24% of participation in people’s diet. Considering the entire country, the numbers increased from 14.3% in 2002-2003 (first survey for the whole of Brazil) to around 19% in 2017-2018
The increase in the presence of group 4 is also seen in the Brazilian countryside, from 7.4% in 2002-2003 to 11.5% in 2017-2018.
In recent years of research, however, the expansion of ultra-processed products has slowed down.
The research based on IBGE data shows that in the South, Southeast, metropolitan areas, in urban areas and in families with higher incomes, ultra-processed foods already make up about 20% of what is purchased as food for the home.
A greater presence of ultra-processed products in people’s lives is a —worrying— global trend. “They bring a very large sales, market and marketing force from multinationals. They are foods that have appeal. They are everywhere, you can consume them doing different things at the same time, anywhere you look you see them. have this practicality that is attractive”, says the Nupens researcher.
The study observed that, as income increases, the share of fresh/minimally processed foods and processed ingredients in the household pantry decreases. In the latest budget surveys, however, there was a stabilization in the acquisition of ultra-processed products in families with the highest income. Levy says this could mean an awareness of the risks of unhealthy eating.
But, at the same time, families with lower incomes remain in a situation of constant increase in the consumption of ultra-processed products — despite the fact that, in total numbers, they still consume less products from group 4, when compared to the richest slice.
The researchers say this is related to the even higher prices of ultra-processed products. The problem is that the situation is changing.
There is a tendency for healthy foods, that is, especially in natura/minimally processed foods, to become more expensive compared to unhealthy — ultra-processed.
Researchers had expected this change to occur only in the middle of the decade, but the Covid pandemic and weather phenomena – which are expected to grow with the climate crisis – accelerated the pace. “Our estimate indicates that this transition would be happening at this exact moment”, says Rafael Claro, a researcher at UFMG and one of the authors of the study.
The situation will be difficult to reverse, says Claro.
And why does this price difference between processed and healthy products occur? The situation can be explained by the room for maneuver, that is, large companies are able to better cushion economic impacts.
“Seu João, who sells peppers, has nothing to do. He has three inputs: seeds, fertilizer and water, in addition to the transport chain. When something goes wrong, he has no other mechanism than to transfer it to the price “, says Sure.
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