Popular, aesthetic laser treatments such as waxing are not offered to black people in most clinics.
These procedures can cause spots and burns on black skin, which has a higher concentration of melanin. Because they do not have adequate equipment or specialized professionals, most establishments do not serve this population.
Unsatisfied with the technological limitation and lack of information, beautician Zarah Flor da Silva Rizzo, 37, began testing the technology on herself, adjusting the machine’s settings, until she created her own protocol, in 2015.
Today, she owns the beauty clinic that bears her name, in Bela Vista, in São Paulo. Created by and for black people, the space is one of the few in the city to offer services to this public, which corresponds to 90% of customers.
According to the entrepreneur, laser hair removal is the flagship of the business. The treatment lasts from 10 to 12 sessions, which cost from BRL 85 (upper lip) to BRL 399 (leg) each.
The clinic also offers skin cleansing, microneedling and botox, as well as nutritional monitoring, eyebrow design, procedures for localized fat, among others.
Dermatologist Katleen da Cruz Conceição, a reference in the treatment of black skin, explains that melanin attracts the action of the laser. In blacks and browns, the device cannot distinguish the skin from the fur, so it can end up causing injuries. In white skins, the effect of the technology is concentrated in the fur.
The doctor is a member of the Skin of Color Society, an American society devoted to knowledge about skin color in dermatology, and also began her studies by testing it on herself.
Today, she sees her patients in São Paulo, at Clínica Vanité, and in Rio de Janeiro, through the Paula Bellotti Group. According to her, technologies already exist for the treatment of black skin, but the price of the machines is very high.
“A laser that I really like is the picosecond, [que emite pulsos de laser na velocidade de picossegundo]🇧🇷 It costs around R$ 1 million, not including maintenance”, he says.
The doctor says that her patients come to her mainly because of skin diseases. This portion of the population is more prone to allergies, alopecia —related to hair loss— and spider veins on the legs, for example.
For Conceição, the lack of information and accessible technology for treatment has its roots in racism. “They believe that the black population has no purchasing power [para pagar tratamentos]”, it says.
It was this thought that Zarah sought to combat. “I wanted a clinic with more professionals like me.” The company has five hired beauticians and ten other specialist partners. Of all the employees, only one is white.
“I try to support the Black Money Movement and only consume products from black people.” According to her, her business has become a welcoming environment. “It’s hard to find a black professional in the health area. When people see it, they get emotional”, she says.
In 2020, she invested more than BRL 20,000 to expand the business. The clientele grew and a month ago the businesswoman moved to a larger space, with eight service rooms and 15 employees. In 2021 alone, the clinic earned more than R$440,000, and this year it has already exceeded R$490.
Dermatologist André Moreira, 33, teamed up with two white partners to create ADA (Alfa Dermatologia Avançada), in Brasília, in 2019. Contrary to facial harmonization, the company offers treatments aimed at the individual’s particularities.
The clinic has a sector specialized in black skin, coordinated by the dermatologist. For him, the lack of investment in this public demonstrates a lack of knowledge of the market.
“We are the majority of Brazil. We have black people, rich, poor and in the so-called middle class. Several are willing to invest in aesthetic care.”
In 2021, the doctor treated more than 900 people. Of them, 60% were black, according to him. A consultation at the clinic, which earned around BRL 3 million in 2021, costs an average of BRL 350.
The initial investment was BRL 300,000, not including costs with equipment such as lasers, injectable products and team training.
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