Known for its corporate buildings and trendy restaurants, the São Paulo neighborhood of Itaim Bibi has a large house that seems to be fighting against time, with a low stone gate and iron railing. More than an old property resistant to real estate speculation in the city, it was in that house that Cacilda Becker, the great lady of Brazilian theater, lived.
“Today I’m staying at her house”, says chef Luiza Hoffman, who currently occupies the address in the west of São Paulo with her new restaurant, Atto, which opened in early June. A small renovation was made to house the space, but much of the old project was maintained — including the huge jabuticabeira tree in the backyard.
But it’s not just the name of the venture that refers to the theatrical universe: the menu and drinks list are also inspired by the taste of Cacilda and her colleagues. In addition, visitors are served in an environment marked by works of art reminiscent of the property’s former resident, who died in 1969, aged 48, after suffering a stroke in one of the intervals of the play “Waiting for Godot”, in which played the main role.
One of the dishes that nods to Cacilda’s taste is the corn gnocchi — made without flour, it resembles a pamonha served in cubes inside a fonduta of mascarpone cheese, crispy parmesan and toasted baby corn (R$ 68). The dish, says Hoffman, also nods to his grandmother. “She would make potato gnocchi with corn when she didn’t have enough potatoes,” he recalls.
Signed by mixologist Talita Simões, the drinks menu also brings references to Cacilda’s artistic trajectory and to Brazilian theater. Among the cocktails, there is the Wedding Dress – the name of one of Nelson Rodrigues’ pieces, which was starred by the actress in a 1946 montage. The recipe uses grapefruit vodka, guava reduction, citrus solution and sparkling wine (R$ 40).
There is also a section with types of gin and tonic, shakes, non-alcoholic cocktails and classics with a special touch. The Nicette Mule, for example, is a version of the moscow mule made with bourbon instead of vodka. It costs R$38 and, of course, gives a wink to actress Nicette Bruno, who died in 2020.
Other personal references by Hoffman complete Atto’s menu, which features Mediterranean, Asian and Brazilian recipes and preparations with a lighter and healthier touch. The chef is a graduate of the Paul Bocuse Institute in France, a specialist in macrobiotic food and has an internship at the Martin Berasategui restaurant in San Sebastián, Spain, which has three stars in the Michelin guide.
These influences appear in recipes such as strawberry butter —that’s right, strawberry butter—, which Hoffman says was a gift from Berasategui, and which appears on the couvert along with blue bread, made with genipap, and grilled zucchinis (R $18).
Other highlights on the menu are a kind of ceviche made with lychee (R$32) and shrimp curry with pineapple (R$98). But the menu also features pasta, such as lasagna with meatballs (R$78), in addition to meat dishes, such as the flank steak prepared in beer (R$82.80).
During the week, the place also serves an executive menu (from R$62 to R$78) at lunchtime, in addition to opening at night for dinner. From Friday to Sunday, it works without interruption for those who want to extend the meal with drinks during the third act.
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