Opinion – Marcelo Katsuki: Shuk serves Middle Eastern street food in Baixo Pinheiros

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The hubbub at the corner of Rua Ferreira de Araújo and Rua Marcos Azevedo announces: there is good stuff in the area. And the stylish corner house does not disappoint. The address houses Shuk Falafel & Kebabs, a new street food restaurant in Pinheiros. And what street food!

The house has an indoor lounge with open kitchen, balcony and sidewalk with tables, all with a very relaxed atmosphere. The project, signed by Estúdio Vértices, mixes urban elements, neons, posters, broken walls and colors and textures typical of Middle Eastern street markets, the “shuks”.

The cook and designer Suzana Goldfarb and the baker and historian Mauro Brosso run the house, who in 2020 opened Yalah Falafel, the embryo of what would become Shuk, now with a physical address. Suzana takes care of mezzes and the salon, while Mauro is responsible for the breads and the grill.

The menu was created with dishes to be shared. But there is an interesting option of executive menu during the week that mixes the main dishes of the menu such as falafel or kebabs (Turkish-style skewers) with mujaddara (basmati rice with spices), fries and salad with prices between R$45 and R$59.

To drink, there are natural wines, beers, sodas with natural juice and drinks. Cocktails, such as the Negroni (R$40), the gin and tonic (R$36) and the mimosa (R$36), arrive with a touch of arak, the grape and aniseed spirit — but can be ordered at their classic versions.

We started with the Trio of pastes with hummus (the chickpea paste), labneh (dry curd) and a perfect babaganush, with pita bread (R$65/48). We still took the waiter’s tip and tried the muhammara, the delicious smoked red pepper paste, with walnuts and pomegranate molasses (R$28). For those who like eggplant, Hatzil (R$35) is a must. It brings the vegetables roasted on the grill and finished with dry curds and pomegranate, a breathtaking combination.

The portion of falafel (R$ 22 – 5 pcs.), also pleases. The fried dumplings with chickpeas, herbs and spices arrive dry in the company of tahini sauce, as well as the fried kibbeh (R$ 12), which has moist, well-seasoned ground meat in the filling and crispy crust.

The banana michuí (R$48), made with grilled beef rib brains, reveals a lot of flavor thanks to the streaky fat in the meat and to the point at which it is served. It arrives accompanied by onion, green pepper and grilled tomato. Another option that pleases the barbecue flavor is the beef shawarma (R$ 46), the classic Arabic sandwich made of sheet bread rolled with meat, pickles, fries, salad, tahini sauce and garlic mayonnaise. Serves as a complete meal.

Desserts include Al Kaseem’s Arabic ice cream (R$18/R$21 with pistachio farofa) in the flavors of dates, pistachios, figs and walnuts, halva and coffee with cardamom. Although the ingredients suggest potency, they are very delicate. A more striking option is the Arabic sweets, which vary daily, such as Baclava, made with crushed walnut paste wrapped in filo dough and bathed with honey and pistachio farofa. Memorable.

Shuk Falafel & Kebabs – map here
Rua Ferreira de Araújo, 385, Pinheiros – São Paulo – SP
Phone / Whatsapp: 11 97219-0852

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