“And sheep’s cheese exists? Since when do sheep give milk?” These are some of the questions that producer Paulo Rezende, owner of Fazenda Atalaia, hears from visitors who learn about his new products.
A maker of cow and goat cheeses, including tulha, a gold medalist at the World Cheese Awards in San Sebastián, Spain, Paulo is launching its first sheep’s cheeses.
Creamy, aged for 21 days, they come out with a washed rind or with white mold and should reach the market within 90 days.
Those who visit the farm, located in Amparo (SP), can taste the novelties and see the animals. “Many people have never seen a sheep up close, but they all show a desire to taste the cheeses”, says the producer.
Paulo Rezende is not alone. Brazilian cheesemakers, and those from São Paulo in particular, are finally betting on the potential of sheep’s cheese.
This is a market that is still in its infancy in the country. According to the Guia do Queijo, prepared in 2021 by cheese maker Fernando Oliveira, sheep’s cheeses account for only 2% of national production.
But they have everything to gain expression, as is already the case in Europe — the famous Italian pecorino, Greek feta, Spanish Manchego and Portuguese Serra da Estrela are based on sheep’s milk.
“The consumer still has resistance, which I attribute to the lack of options. We have few products to offer”, evaluates the cheese maker Falco Bonfadini, owner of the Galeria do Queijo store, in Vila da Saúde.
Among the novelties that are starting to hit the market are the cheeses from Herdade Duas Serras, launched in March 2022 by the couple Henrique Sutto and Ana Claudia Paranhos.
On the property, located in São Bento do Sapucaà (SP), they set up a first-class cabin, which has already won the Federal Inspection Seal (SIF), a rare event among small artisanal producers.
The 180 animals are of the Lacaune dairy breed, of French origin. Inspired by Portuguese families, Henrique and Ana Claudia invest in cheeses aged between six months and a year, which rest in an underground stone cellar, with controlled humidity and temperature.
In its own e-commerce, which starts operating in October, the piece weighing around 500 grams will cost R$110.
“The sheep feed freely on the fruits of the orchard, so some people have already felt fruity notes in the cheeses”, says Henrique, who promises deliveries throughout the country.
President of the Brazilian Association of Dairy Sheep Breeders (Abcol), Martha Amaral claims to be a pioneer among producers in São Paulo — it was in 2015 that she launched Gran Sierra sheep’s cheeses.
Owner of a farm in Cunha (SP), Martha has only one assistant to sort the sheep and transform the 50 liters of milk a day into four types of cheese, in addition to dulce de leche. Cangalha matures for up to 180 days, but there is also a fresh version, which is best-selling.
“The publicity is an ant’s work, that’s why I participate in so many events. Most of the public doesn’t know and confuses it with goat cheese”, says Martha.
The next appointment on his agenda is the World Cheese Championship in Brazil, which takes place this week in São Paulo. In addition to the competition that will choose the best cheeses in the country, among 1,200 products registered, the event will have a fair open to the public, with free admission.
Another producer from São Paulo who has already guaranteed a presence is Ricardo Rettmann, from Porto Feliz (SP), who founded Queijaria Rima in 2017. He is currently the largest in the state — his herd of 800 animals yields a daily production of 200 liters of milk.
From Rima’s cellar, cheeses like Araritaguaba come out, matured for a year — at the brand’s e-commerce, the 200-gram piece costs R$ 62.90. But there are others that are very fresh.
Its dry sheep curd, for example, was the product chosen to integrate two dishes of the Gastronomic Route, which is part of the Brazilian Cheese World Cup: from September 15th to 25th, 15 establishments in the capital will serve exclusive recipes with Brazilian cheeses.
At Shuk Falafel & Kebabs, the curd will be served with tomato confit, Olibi oil and zátar bread (R$32). At Le Jazz Brasserie de Pinheiros, it comes with lamb kafta with pistachio and Moroccan couscous (R$45).
“When we started, making sheep’s cheese was something out of this world. Fortunately, things have evolved a lot, we are no longer alone on the boat”, says Ricardo.
He’s right. The team is only growing and will soon be even bigger — three new producers from São Paulo are undergoing health certification and plan to put their sheep’s cheese on the market by next year.
In Joaquim EgÃdio, district of Campinas (SP), the engineering couple Genivaldo Pimenta and Daniele Santos still do not sell their cheese, but they have just opened Cabanha Capestre 53 to visitors.
Together with their daughters Marina, who is a biologist, and Elena, who is a chemist, they receive tourists interested in getting to know the herd of 48 animals and having picnics with the products of the house, from the mild Boursin to the long-aged ones.
“With sheep’s milk, every cheese we plan to make is wonderful”, melts Genivaldo, who has lived in Spain and learned to appreciate the delicacy there. “We have the light and fresh, good for breakfast and dessert, to the most intense.”
Also in the process of certification is Cabanha Bocaina, in Cunha, which belongs to the couple VirgÃlio Paiva and Fernando Marques. On the property they acquired in 2018, they keep 25 sheep and are already making cheese and dulce de leche for their own consumption, while the Municipal Inspection Seal is still pending.
“The first to be launched will be the feta type”, announces VirgÃlio, with an eye on consumers in Vale do ParaÃba and Paraty.
Industrialist Marcio Tosi, owner of Langhi & Tosi, in Cabreúva, considers his production of sheep’s cheese a hobby. “During the pandemic, stuck in the farm, I went crazy seeing the grass growing and invented the cheese factory”, he confesses.
But he knows he won’t be able to resist — he has a plan ready to open the property to visitors and has already filed the paperwork to obtain state certification, so that more people know about his production.
“I’m making a manchego type, with three months of maturation, a pecorino type, which is not ready yet, a washed rind with black beer and a boursin”, he lists.
For veteran Ricardo Rettman, the entry of new producers into the segment is a reason to celebrate.
“I don’t consider other cheesemakers as competitors. It’s very cool that other producers emerge, so that the public has more and more access to sheep’s cheese.”
Brazil Cheese World Cup
From the 15th to the 18th of September. Theater B32 (Av. Brigadeiro Faria Lima, 3732, Itaim Bibi, São Paulo). Information at mundodoqueijodobrasil.com
Where to buy
the cheese shop
R. Aspicuelta, 35, Vila Madalena, online store aqueijariavirtual.com.br.
Cheese Gallery
Hortifruti Imigrantes (Av. Professor Abraão de Morais, 1500, box 6, Vila da Saúde). Instagram @galeriadoqueijo.
Two Serras Homestead
herdadeduasserras.com.br (online sales from October).
Rima cheese shop
queijariarima.com.br
To visit
Country Hut 53
@cabanhacampestre53. Schedule by phone (19) 99761-1706.
Atalaia Farm
fazendaatalaiaamparo.com.br. Schedule by phone (19) 99750-8129.
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