It would be a sin to go to Israel and not see Tel Aviv. The metropolis, which, for ultra-Orthodox of different stripes, evokes the biblical Sodom and Gomorrah, destroyed by divine wrath, is a sunny city of warm nights located on the edge of the Mediterranean, an ode to hedonism.
There, couples of all kinds —straight, gay and undefined— walk their toned bodies along the 22 km long boardwalk. With their pets in tow, they parade peacefully between beach chairs, umbrellas and lifeguard towers.
At night, those tanned people take to the streets in search of fun. From Sunday to Sunday, Tel Aviv does not sleep. With eyes open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, the city is an invitation to encounters.
Bar and nightclub guide Avital Levin, 28, takes tourists to heavy metal concerts, rounds of drinks in a romantic atmosphere or to a simple little place where you can drink pomegranate juice to cool off the heat of the morning.
“You have chic places with 360-degree views of the rooftops on the 16th floor, as well as hidden, secret underground rooms. It’s a city that doesn’t stop. Not even on Shabbat.”
A holy day for Jews, Shabbat begins at sunset on Friday and ends at dusk on Saturday. In Jewish tradition, this is a day dedicated to rest, recollection and prayer, but Tel Aviv does not get tired and does not stop. “We’re a party town, gay friendly, vegan friendly, dog friendly,” says Levin.
From electronic music to rock, Rothschild Boulevard brings together clubs that cater to different profiles. Many “inferninhos” usually have live music shows. In the same eclectic space, it is possible to find three environments in harmony.
Ben Yehuda Street (named after the linguist who reconstructed the Hebrew language in the 19th century) and Dizengoff Street run from north to south and run through practically the entire center, with the second, near the corner of Frischmann Street, being quite lively.
It’s nice to explore them on foot and stop along the way between pubs and cocktail bars.
Under sunlight and without the effect of late night drinks, you can notice the Bauhaus architecture, so present in Tel Aviv. There are at least 4,000 buildings, built in the 1930s and 1940s.
These buildings were designed by immigrant architects, mainly from Germany, where the school of art and design, which generated a revolutionary approach to design and architecture, operated from 1919 to 1933, when it became the target of Nazi persecution.
In 2003, Unesco recognized the Bauhaus legacy in Tel Aviv and declared the “white city” a world heritage site.
A metropolis with around 400,000 inhabitants, Tel Aviv naturally has neighborhoods with their own identity, but even so, with common characteristics: in all of them, many people, of varying ages, circulate by bike and, above all, electric scooters , the fever of the moment.
The flat roads that connect the neighborhoods favor the relaxed and healthy use of these means of transportation.
The sun is starting to say goodbye, turning the narrow streets and limestone buildings of old Jaffa gold, and it’s still scorching hot. Gradually, the light breeze from the Mediterranean mixes with the warm air of the region, known in Hebrew as Yafo, a place that, says the Bible, was founded by Japheth, son of Noah, after the flood.
The old port region, which, in the 18th century BC. C, was home to Egyptians and, until the mid-20th century, received English, is today a pulsating showcase of bohemia and diversity in Israel. There, artists, Jews, Arabs and tourists from all over the world come together in search of a refuge by the sea.
Trendy bars and restaurants, with outdoor seating, pop up along lively Rabbi Yohanan Street, named after an important rabbi who lived from 180 to 279 AD, who is generally credited with compiling the Jerusalem Talmud.
Between one bar and another, the amphitheater, museum, flea market, mosque, church, art galleries, square pass by. Jaffa, or “Yafo”, a word that means “beautiful” in Hebrew, is being revealed and, little by little, helps us to better understand cosmopolitan Tel Aviv.
The next morning, surprise: a priest says mass in Portuguese at the Monastery of São Nicolau, dating from 1667, where outsiders and also the Armenian community of Jaffa are welcomed.
For an incredible view of the Tel Aviv waterfront, the top of the Wishing Bridge is a perfect stop. According to popular belief, whoever makes a wish will be rewarded when he crosses the bridge and, with his eyes turned towards the sea, touches the bronze plate on the handrail in which the representation of his zodiacal sign is inscribed.
Young people like to make a pun that encapsulates the spirit of Israel’s two most important cities: “While Jerusalem prays, Tel Aviv plays”.
No wonder, the city bathed by the turquoise blue of the Mediterranean was considered one of the best places in the world to go to the beach; in the white sand, glass bottles are prohibited and, soon, plastic will be too.
It was also awarded as the best place for gay tourism on the planet. It is common to see rainbow flags hanging from the windows of buildings, a symbol of the LGBTQIA+ community.
Elegant and cultural, the Neve Tzedek neighborhood is an artistic oasis in the heart of the city. The stores, from decoration to food, are small and cozy, an invitation to take a closer look at what each one has to offer. As not everything is perfect, it’s good to prepare your pocket, as Tel Aviv is expensive. A handmade long neck costs no less than US$ 10, around R$ 55 (US$ 1 = 3.58 shekels, the local currency).
Neve Tzedek came to life in the late 1880s when a group of Jewish families escaping the overcrowded port of Jaffa settled there. Even today, the place maintains the air of a village, with its narrow streets, flanked by high walls and a mixture of architectural styles.
Most of the windows of the houses, if not the entire façade, are decorated with colorful flowers. The neighborhood, which also houses the Suzanne Dellal Dance and Theater Center, is undergoing an intense program of renovation and restoration.
Suddenly, on a tree-lined lane that seemed forgotten on the hustle map, there’s a stylish cafe with colorful sidewalk seating. On the menu, 20 types of drink: mocha, machiatto, cappuccino and many others. Milk, that way, only if it’s made with almonds. No more Tel Aviv.
The journalist traveled at the invitation of the Israeli Ministry of Tourism.
I have worked as a journalist for over 10 years, and my work has been featured on many different news websites. I am also an author, and my work has been published in several books. I specialize in opinion writing, and I often write about current events and controversial topics. I am a very well-rounded writer, and I have a lot of experience in different areas of journalism. I am a very hard worker, and I am always willing to put in the extra effort to get the job done.
