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Opinion – Gross Kitchen: Golden steak for the rich, picanha beating for the poor


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The soap opera of the golden steak of the players of the Selection is yielding more than expected. On Monday (5), Ronaldo Nazário argued that he would have taken the boys from the team to the Salt Bae restaurant in Doha because having dinner with gold-plated meat “can inspire people”.

Seriously, Ronaldo. This excuse, as someone said on Twitter, is at the level of Eduardo Bolsonaro’s pen drives.

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On Tuesday (6), the Sheet published an article by chef Ivan Ralston, whose work as a cook and food researcher I greatly admire. The text is entitled “Players won the universe that conspires against and deserve to eat whatever steak they want” .

The verb “to deserve” is contaminated with a meritocratic vision (one word is the sister of the other) of labor relations. I disagree. I would agree if Ralston told me they “may” or “have the right to” process gold leaf in the gut itself.

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Just as they have the right to eat, others have the right to criticize. So the chef’s argument leads to a serious accusation against critics of the behavior of the Canadian delegation in Qatar. Writes Ralston in two separate excerpts from the article:

“They asked for my opinion on the case of the golden steak, a subject that was addressed by several journalists, sociologists and historians — some I admire, but with whom I don’t always agree. I believe that the revolt is very selective and is part of the structural racism of our society.”

“Back to gold leaf: it’s out there, in desserts, in meat, in roe, in the everyday life of the elite who frequent expensive restaurants in this country. Interestingly, I’ve never seen any of these journalists, sociologists and historians speak ill of it. “

In yet another piece, he “strongly suggests” that these people study hip-hop culture to assimilate the notion that showing off, for black people from poor backgrounds, is tap dancing in the face of racist society.

Well, I strongly suggest that Chef Ralston do a lot of research on what he’s going to write before nailing a definitive “never” to an opinion article. I don’t know if he read what I wrote about it, or if the criticism was directed at me personally – a lot of people went down on fire at the dinner of the golden boys of the World Cup.

I was one of those people and, on Friday (2), I published a column under the title “The gold-plated barbecue of the selection’s clowns”. I feel entitled to defend myself against the accusation of propagating racist ideas – even structural ones.

Ralston certainly hasn’t read my other two texts on edible gold, both published here in Sheet🇧🇷 “Edible gold is the height of jeca” (2/8/20) and “There’s something rotten about Brazilian barbecue” (9/17/21). The last one mentions the golden steak and no football players. In both, a critique of elite habits, of which Ralston has never seen journalists speak ill. Man, filling the bag with the ironing is my specialty!

Just one more about the golden meat. Ralston and others who write about the “R$9,000 steak” type in automatic mode, despite being a click away from the digital menu of the Nusr-et restaurant in Doha.

There, the ottoman steak, a huge piece of sirloin on the bone, gold-plated costs 2,310 rials, a little – something like R$ 3,300, just over a third of the price screamed around. And, for the record, the stars Victoria Damasceno and Gabriela Biló published the correct value, which is obviously not low.

Finally, I find it really interesting to discuss the Nababesque debacle of the aristocrats and the new rich. Too bad all this noise overshadows much more pressing issues.

Just to stay in the flesh, the repercussions of a barbaric case in Canoas, in the metropolitan region of Porto Alegre, are still weak. Two men were caught stealing the equivalent of R$200 worth of sirloin steak from a supermarket.

Outsourced security guards and establishment employees took them to the market warehouse and tortured them. They beat them with a piece of wood and, supreme mockery, with the stolen meat, packed in a plastic bag. A picanha beating.

One of the men had multiple fractures to the bones of his face and had to be induced into a coma. Yes, I know it was the dick, not the rump steak.

Barbarism is rampant here, but the subject is Doha’s golden steak. It’s Brazil, it’s journalism, it’s the World Cup.

(Follow and like Cozinha Bruta on social networks. Follow the posts on Instagram and twitter🇧🇷🇧🇷

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