Opinion – Guia Negro: The black Brasília I saw and that Lula will need to know

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When then-president Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva moved to the Planalto Palace, in Brasília, to govern the country for the first time in 2003, we still had a society that did not treat the racial agenda with the importance it deserves. After provoked advances, including in his government, and two decades later, Lula returns to be a resident of the Federal District in the same position as president and will not be able to ignore the racial issue and some stories erased by structural racism.

I was in the federal capital in November for the opening of the Brasília Negra tour, by Guia Negro and Me Leva Cerrado, hosted by tour guide Bianca Daya, and I had the opportunity to discover stories and places that few people know.

The historical-photographic exhibition Reintegration of Possession — Narratives of the Black Presence in the History of the Federal District, curated by Ana Flávia Magalhães Pinto, professor at the Department of History at the University of Brasília (UnB), was one of the highlights. The exhibition draws attention to the presence of this population in various social spaces in the city, since the construction phase. Headquartered at the Galeria dos Estados, the exhibition is available until March and should be mandatory.

There, there is also Praça Marielle Franco, which could well have a statue of the Rio councilor who was murdered in 2018 and the panel commemorating the Universal Declaration of Human Rights. The Galeria dos Estados is also the stage for the Makossa party, a black dance that has been taking place for 20 years and is a reference for black culture in the city.

Known for its flowering ipês, the capital is also home to baobabs, planted in the planning phase and which refer to the African continent. African embassies such as Nigeria and Senegal host art spaces and can also be visited, providing a connection with the mother continent. Another interesting visit is Chef Papy’s Sunugal Restaurant, which serves Senegalese food.

The rap scene is quite strong, especially in the satellite cities, and it was interesting to go through a “samba circuit” that is present in different bars and places, which organize famous circles.

One of these places is the Tia Zélia Bar and Restaurant, in Vila Planalto, which serves homemade food with Bahian flavor and has samba on Saturdays. Federal deputy Benedita da Silva (PT/RJ) is one of the regulars and could take her Planalto supporter for a walk around this other Brasília.

Another example of a place with a strong black history is Prainha, where Praça dos Orixás is located, which houses sculptures of candomblé deities. The stage for manifestations of the black movement and acts of religions of African origin, it is also a constant target of religious intolerance, leading to frequent depredation of the images.

One thing is for sure: Lula will again need to leave the Palace, visit other countries in the world, but also quilombos, indigenous villages and stories that history does not tell. The new president can start by doing his homework and getting to know his surroundings. He will need to understand that we blacks will no longer accept being in the background.

We will want spaces in ministries, in decisions, in the conception of public policies and also in the urban spaces of cities. So, the message is given: Lula comes to know Brasília Negra and expands this challenge to rediscover black places and histories throughout Brazil.

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