Opinion – Copo Cheio: Trilha Fermentaria offers pizza with yeast and malt bagasse, as well as good beers

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After establishing itself in Perdizes with one of the good brewpubs (bars that brew beer locally) in the city, Trilha Cervejaria took a new step, closer to the center, at the end of 2022. Or two.

Shortly before the start of the World Cup, the Trilha Fermentaria was inaugurated in Barra Funda, now with its own food. The disputed craft beers are accompanied by pizzas and snacks to share, all, as the name implies, made from different fermentation processes.

“We create our own long-fermentation mass [para as pizzas], we make our vinegars, pickles, soft drinks and we are going to serve cider. In this new house, we ferment much more than beer”, celebrates Beto Tempel, Daniel Bekeierman’s partner in the enterprise.

There are suggestions like the mushroom with barley popcorn (R$30) or the lamb sandwich (R$37), with homemade bread and meat marinated in beer.

Made in a wood-fired oven, pizzas are almost cousins ​​to beers —which was once called “liquid bread”—, with yeast and malt bagasse in the dough. In one size, sprouted style, it offers flavors such as Shak (with curd and egg yolk cured with spices) or the self-explanatory Chicken, Beer and Curry, both for R$52.

The barrels at the back of the house, a former warehouse, are much more than a pretty decoration. They keep the brand’s beers, which are maturing, in different styles —Trilha has been developing a great line of “barrel aged” beers for some time.

Continuing with the brewing section, the new house has 18 taps, six more than the one in Perdizes — but not all of them are necessarily active (currently, there are 14). Labels such as the refreshing Pils (pilsen with 5.7% alcohol, for R$ 15, 300 ml), Lobozó (witbier with uvaia, for R$ 21, 350 ml) or Pão de Mel, a classic pastry stout from brand, with honey, chocolate and spices, and 12.2% alcohol (R$ 38, in a 200 ml glass). Those who prefer can opt for the tasting ruler, with four 100 ml cups.

And there’s more: a small corridor with red ribbons on one side, which lead to the bathroom, and crushed cans on the wall, on the other, created an interesting space with an instagrammable feel. After that, there are fridges with beers to take away and a little shop with other items to make the brewers happy.

One small caveat; among the 14 recipes selected, maybe the public that is already new to crafts is favored, with many sour or juicy IPA beers. But in addition to taps, there are many canned options, just ask the friendly attendants.

Ah, and there is still another step: in the same Barra Funda, Trilha opened its new factory, almost doubling its production capacity, from 7,000 to 13,000 liters.

And the space in Perdizes? Keep going. But now it is no longer a brewpub to be a taproom, that is, it offers its own beer, but no longer produces it there. And what does it change? Nothing. Just one more alternative to do the trail you prefer.

Fermentary TrailCanon Vicente Miguel Marino, 390, Barra Funda, central region. Wed. to Fri.: 18h to 24h. Sat.: 12h to 24h. Sun.: 12h to 22h. 50 seats. Ecommerce: loja.trilhacervejaria.com.br/

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