05/19/2023
3:43 pm
Amanda Lemos
Of African origin and versatile in nature, couscous from the Northeast has been popping up in creations ranging from breakfast to dinner in restaurants in the city of São Paulo.
As the name already announces, he is the protagonist of Cuscuz da Irina, which opened less than a year ago in Vila Madalena, west of the city. There, former Masterchef Irina Cordeiro, born in Rio Grande do Norte, serves the ingredient in more traditional preparations (couscous soaked in milk and bottled butter, consumed in the Northeast in coffee), and also mixed with elements such as gherkin pickles.
At the exquisite Priceless, run by Paraiba native Onildo Rocha on the rooftop of the Light shopping mall, it is served with cream of carrots and delicate vegetables. Casa Tucupi, in Vila Mariana, a flagship restaurant from Acre, recalls that couscous has space on the table in other states of the country.
See below where to try different recipes based on couscous.
botanist
The restaurant with a menu full of Brazilian flavors has three Northeastern couscous options available for breakfast, lunch and afternoon snack. Among the orders is the veg couscous, with corn flakes with fresh tomato and salted granola (R$ 16). Another option is minced meat, which accompanies farofa made from couscous and rice (R$ 40).
Rua Bento Freitas, 290, Centro. To have. 12pm to 4pm, Wed to Fri. 9 am to 4 pm, Sat. and sun. 9 am to 5 pm. @abotanista
Tucupi House
Installed in Vila Mariana, it is a multipurpose space that usually hosts art exhibitions and where a jewelry school operates. The house, commanded by chef Amanda Vasconcelos, brings typical dishes from Acre, where the cook was born. The Baixaria takes corn couscous, ground beef, tomato salad and fried egg with soft yolk (R$ 38).
R. Mj. Maragliano, 74, Vila Mariana, tel. 94241-2776. 30 places. Thu.: 16:30 to 22:00. Sat. and Sun.: 12:30 to 20:00. @casatucupi
Cuia
The house led by chef Bel Coelho uses corn flakes in its recipes, the basis for the northeastern couscous, which comes from the Cooperativa Agropecuária Mista Regional de Irecê (Copirecê), in the backlands of Bahia. The restaurant, at the foot of the Copan and attached to the Megafauna bookstore, serves couscous with artisan Quina cheese cream, sweet potato chips and fried egg (R$ 36) all day long.
Copan building – av. Ipiranga, 200, store 48, República, central region. Mon. to Fri., from 12 pm to 7 pm . @cuia_restaurante
Irina’s Couscous
Commanded by former Masterchef Irina Cordeiro, it serves northeastern couscous with traditional accompaniments that she learned from her grandmother —but which take on a modern air in the cook’s hands. If you pass by at brunch time, a good choice is the northeastern cornflakes, which only takes milk and bottled butter (R$17). To satisfy your hunger, go for sertão, which takes corn flakes with sun-dried meat in cream, coalho cheese, black-eyed pea salad, coriander and bottled butter (R$58).
R. Ipero, 47, Vila Madalena, west region. Mon. to Sat., from 9 am to 5 pm @cuscuzdairina
couscous
In Vila Clementino, Couscuzlícia started as a delivery service in 2019 and gained a fixed address in 2021. Among the different dishes based on couscous from the Northeast, the arretado includes sun-dried meat, coalho cheese and cream cheese (R$ 32.90). The one for licking your lips has shrimp in coconut milk sauce (R$39.90). Dishes prices vary in delivery.
R. Primeiro de Janeiro, 425, Vila Clementino, south region, @cuscuzlicia. Mon. to Sat., from 8:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.
Dona Canô
The Brazilian cuisine restaurant in Perdizes serves corn flakes sautéed in red onion, tomato and celery and coalho cheese as a side dish for seven main course options, which start at R$51.90.
R. Fr. Chico, 275, Perdizes, west region, tel. 3862-1307. 50 seats. To have. to Fri.: 11:30 am to 3:30 pm. Sat. and Sun.: 11:30 am to 4:30 pm; @donacanorestaurante
Jesuino Brilliant
It brings typical recipes from the country cuisine of Rio Grande do Norte. There, couscous is served in the form of farofa, very loose and seasoned with bottled butter, and can be served with sun-dried meat in cream with string beans (from R$44).
R. Arruda Alvim, 180, Pinheiros, west region. Mon. on Fri., from 12h to 15h; Sat., from 12:00 to 16:00
@jesuinobrilhante
calf’s foot jelly
The new Mocotó unit, recently opened in Vila Leopoldina, carries the roots
Northeastern dishes typical of the restaurants led by chef Rodrigo Oliveira, from a Pernambuco family. For the main dish, order the sertão dish, which has rice, string beans, couscous and dried meat in cream (R$44.90).
R. Aroaba, 333, Vila Leopoldina, west region, @mocotorestaurante. To have. to Sun., from 12h to 16h. @mocotorestaurante
Black Kitchen
Opened last year on a trendy street in Pinheiros, the kitchen is run by Salvadoran chef Rodrigo Freire. The address, which bears Rodrigo’s childhood nickname, brings corn couscous to share between four people. It serves as the basis for a dish that has squid, octopus, shrimp, mussels, cavaquinha, a mix of grilled mini-vegetables and fried manioc (R$367).
R. Fradique Coutinho, 276, Pinheiros, west region. Mon., Wed. and Thu., from 12:00 to 23:00; Fri. and Sat., from 12:00 to 1:00; Sun., from 12:00 to 18:00. @preto.cozinha
priceless
Located in the central region of São Paulo in a space overlooking the Theatro Municipal, it is commanded by chef from Paraíba Onildo Rocha. There, the Northeastern couscous is prepared in the couscous plant, made by Dona Nevinha, an artisan from Paraíba, and it uses carrot cream, vegetables and black-eyed pea vinaigrette (R$ 59).
Shopping Light – r. Formosa, 157, Centro, @espaçopriceless
Source: Folha
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