Traveling by car in England is not an option that is much considered by Brazilian tourists visiting the land of the queen. This is because, in addition to the enormous offer of attractions in London, even experienced drivers feel a certain chill when they hear about driving in the “English hand” – when vehicles circulate on the left side and overtake on the right.
In practice, driving on English roads is not as much of a nightmare as it seems – you can get used to it in half an hour behind the wheel.
And yes, it is worth getting to know the countryside, which, if on the one hand, does not have the cosmopolitan side of London, on the other hand, it offers a dip in history, with strikingly beautiful landscapes and a pleasant immersion in the customs of the so-called royal England, which, here, it has little to do with the queen herself.
The tip is to get the car right at Heathrow airport and from there head towards the southwest of the peninsula to explore the county of Cornwell (Cornwall) in about a week, scheduling London for the end of the trip — there the car definitely stops being a convenience to become a real hindrance.
To the still wary driver, it is worth saying that, in general, the English roads are safe, well signposted and, even the most interior and secondary ones, have good paving, although sometimes they seem too narrow for two vehicles at the same time.
Regarding the climate, the winter is not extremely harsh, varying between 4°C and 10°C, but the rains are frequent. From March to June, the weather improves, becoming firmer and milder.
In July and August, the temperature can reach 30°C, but then the problem is the crowding of English tourists, who have the Cornish coast as a traditional destination in the heat.
From the airport, the first stop is Salisbury, about 120 km away. Medieval city, home to an imposing cathedral, a compact and well-preserved center with good dining options, in addition to the mysterious stone circle of Stonehenge.
Built between 3,000 BC and 1,600 BC, it is considered sacred and mystical to some, but not so much to others. Anyway, since you’re there, it’s worth checking out.
Following the historic line, the next destination is Tintagel, 240 km to the southwest. Leave the main road a little and follow the secondary roads, passing farms and villages lost in time with their more than century-old pubs.
In Tintagel, a park open to visitors houses the ruins of a castle on top of a cliff where the legendary King Arthur was supposed to have been born. Also nearby are the caves where the wizard Merlin, who knows, prepared his magic potions.
After immersing yourself in the history of the most illustrious local son, stop by the Cornish Bakery to taste the traditional Cornish pasty, a baked empanada stuffed with meat and potatoes, reminiscent of similar Chilean or Argentinean empanadas, but in a larger size.
If hunger persists, head to Padstow for lunch, just 40 km from Tintagel. Along the small harbor full of small fishing boats, there are several shops, ice cream parlors, sweet shops and charming restaurants specializing in seafood that, they say, are caught right there.
Rock, sun and beer
Continuing 30 km further south is Newquay, a typical resort town with 20,000 inhabitants, affordable accommodation options and a beachy atmosphere that attracts surfers and families of British tourists in high summer, although the water is never anything but very cold.
From the slopes of Fistral Beach, it is possible to watch, without clapping, a beautiful sunset in one of the bars located on the slope.
To accompany, good craft beers from the region, as well as French and Italian wines at reasonable prices (which unfortunately can change in these new post-Brexit times).
The food is far from sophistication, but, as we are in a beach atmosphere, a well-made pizza always looks like a feast. All packed to the sound of good old rock and roll, the official soundtrack of the trip.
A stretch of 50 km to the south leads to St. Ives, a port city with 11,000 inhabitants built on a narrow peninsula and known for having white sandy beaches and perfect waves, listed among the best in England.
With an air of artistic sophistication, it brings together several art galleries, including an arm of the Tate Gallery, with works by contemporary English artists.
The port has a good variety of cafes and restaurants, which make St. Ives an excellent option to stop for a providential meal. The lowest and oldest part, known as Down-a-long, is on the ridge of land that separates the island from the rest of the city.
Amid alleys with suggestive names such as Salubrious Place, Teetotal Street and The Digey, there are old white houses that today serve the local commerce and, of course, more galleries. The idea is to lose (or gain) time wandering around in a real time travel.
45 minutes from St. Ives, crossing one of the corners of Cornwall to Porthcurno and following a very, very narrow road, you arrive at one of the most impressive open-air theaters in the world.
With origins dating back to the 1920s, and perched on the cliff above a sea of ​​deep emerald green, the Minack Theater maintains a regular schedule that is worth checking out before visiting. If the date of the tour does not coincide with any performance, it is still possible (and unmissable) to check out the place, from where you have an impressive view of the architecture of the theater itself, the beaches and the immensity of the ocean.
On the way back, leaving the coast and going up for 95 km, you arrive at Lostwithiel. Located on the banks of the peaceful River Fowey, the village has about 3,000 inhabitants and a cozy atmosphere, with a good pub, small family restaurants, bakery, butcher, a shop for wedding dresses, another for photographic articles, and even more with old trinkets.
There aren’t any particularly amazing attractions in Lostwithiel, which makes locals wonder why the hell some unsuspecting tourist decided to stop by that backwater.
It could be the mood, the weather, curiosity, or just a simple rest stop after an interesting tour of Cornwall before facing the almost 400 km back to London, who knows.
But if you don’t have a ready answer, don’t worry. You can always say that you are there especially to follow one of the most important events in the entire county: the traditional rubber duck race.
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