Palmier, puff pastry biscuit, is back in fashion; see where to find it in SP

It has many names and evokes different formats. In English-speaking countries, it is “puff pastry fan”, while in Italy it is called “ventagli” – in both cases, the name refers to fans or fans.

In Mexico, it is called “oreja” (ear) and in France it is palmier, a version that caught on in Brazil and refers to palm tree leaves. But there are those who call it elephant ears, French heart and Russian cookie.

Regardless of how each country sees it, the recipe doesn’t vary much – it’s a puff pastry biscuit, rolled up and then cut into thin slices, finished with sugar and baked until golden.

A specialty of French viennoiserie, a category that involves delicate pasta, generally puffy and rich in butter, palmier, according to Maria Lucia Gomensoro, author of “Small Dictionary of Gastronomy” (ed. Objetiva), was created in Paris in the 1930s. In Brazil, it had its golden age in the 1970s and 1980s – and, who would have thought, it became fashionable again.

Sold by weight or by unit, in traditional format or in original versions, the palmier is at it again.

See how to find palmier in São Paulo

By Kim Confeitaria

Pastry chef Veronica Kim shapes the palmier dough into rows. The small plate, called carré palmier, costs R$16.50, but can also be dipped in semi-sweet chocolate or white chocolate – both contain Maldon salt flakes and cost R$19.50. Ugly bites are shavings of the same dough, sold in a 90 g bag, for R$15.
Rua Tupi, 114, Santa Cecilia; website bykimconfeitaria.com.br

Home Bauducco

At the confectionery chain, a box with 120 g of traditional palmiers costs R$22.50. At 140 g, the chocolate-dipped version costs R$26.50.
Shopping Center Norte, Trav. Casalbuono, 120, Vila Guilherme; website casabauducco.com.br

Casa Santa Luzia

At the luxury emporium’s bakery, or at the cafe tables, the classic size palmier, weighing around 20 g, costs R$ 7.80. Only at the bakery counter, the mini version is sold in 110 g packages (R$ 26.60).
Al. Lorena, 1471, Jardim Paulista; website santaluzia.com.br

Confeitaria Dama

Partners Daniela and Mariana Gorski prepare palmiers in individual format, weighing 40 g (R$ 12.50), or in mini size (R$ 39 for a 150 g package).
R. Ferreira de Araújo, 376, Pinheiros; online store confeitariadama.com.br

Fabricate

With three units, the bakery uses French butter to produce puff pastry. The 70 g unit costs R$9.
R. Itacolomi, 612, Higienópolis; Instagram @fabriquepaes

Le Blé Bread House

Sold individually, the cookies prepared by baker Fabio Pasquale weigh around 30 g and cost R$7.50.
R. Pará, 252, Higienópolis; R. Padre João Manuel, 968, Jardim Paulista; Instagram @leblecasadepaes

Le Jazz Boulangerie

Produced with the same dough as mille-feuille, the cookie weighs around 24 g and is sold per unit, for R$9.50.
R. Joaquim Antunes, 501, Pinheiros; Instagram @lejazzboulangerie

Mag Market

In this mix of bakery and confectionery by chef Tássia Magalhães, a large palmier, weighing 60 g, costs R$9.
R. Dr. Renato Paes de Barros, 433, Itaim Bibi, Instagram @magmarket_