Fungus that grows on corn, Mexican Huitlacoche enters the radar of Brazilian chefs

Imagine an ear of corn whose kernels, still on the stem, begin to darken and grow in a disorderly way, as if they were swollen to the point of bursting the straw.

For this ugly anomaly caused by the fungus Ustilago maydis, which has already made many producers despair for fear of losing the plantation, is considered a true delicacy in Mexico. And it is already starting to enter the radar of Brazilian chefs. Its name: huitlacoche, also known as Mexican truffle.

Owner of Colheita Seasonal Boutique Cozinha & Hospedaria, in Pinto Bandeira (RS), chef Giordano Tarso jumped for joy when he discovered an ear infected with the fungus in his small plantation.

He considered it a prize and, at the first opportunity, included the ingredient on the lunch menu. Made melted provolone cheese with huitlacoche ragu and corn, from grains sautéed in onions, garlic, tomatoes, cream and butter.

“Days later, another producer, who saw my posts on Instagram, showed up at the restaurant and gave me 30 more ears. He simply discarded the infected corn because he didn’t know its value”, he says.

With this new batch, Tarso prepared a spicy mayonnaise, which he used to brush on early corncobs, cooked over the coals. “I tasted it in natura, the flavor is intense and very peculiar, very reminiscent of wild mushrooms.”

When young, huitlacoche beans have a firmer texture. However, they wither as they get older — which happens very quickly, in a matter of days. At the end of the cycle, they fall apart in the form of a black powder. For this reason, in the agricultural world, the fungus is known as “corn coal”, a pest to be fought and even incinerated, according to the manuals.

Very different from what happens in Mexico. In the country where there are 59 maize breeds cataloged, huitlacoche is a food of everyday use, popular and appreciated. General director of Fundación Tortilla, a non-profit organization whose objective is to promote the cultivation of corn in the country, Rafael Mier says that the fungus is not exclusive to traditional cuisine.

“It appears in quesadillas, in moles and in tamales stuffing, in lasagnas, pasta dishes, soups and meat sauces”, he lists.

Responsible for Projeto Crioulo, which cultivates creole varieties of corn at Fazenda Vista Alegre, in Capim Branco (MG), agronomist Lucas de Sousa divided opinions when he posted photos and videos of the first ears with huitlacoche he found.

While colleagues in the profession saw the fungus as a disease and warned him of the danger, chefs celebrated the discovery of the delicacy.

One of these chefs was the Mexican Eduardo Nava Ortiz, from the Metzi restaurant, in Pinheiros. With the samples sent by Sousa, the chef prepared a kind of dense sauce — he sautéed the huitlacoche with corn, onions, garlic, butter, sour cream and semi-cured cheese and served the preparation with tortillas.

According to him, about 70% of customers liked it, people who already knew the product or “have a more open mind”. The others turned up their noses.

Doctor in fungal biology and owner of Terroir Sul, from Santa Maria (RS), specialized in regional ingredients, Marcelo Sulzbacher bets that huitlacoche will become fashionable in a short time. “There are already a lot of chefs looking for me, wanting to buy”, he delivers.

The rarity status contributes to the high demand. First, because the huitlacoche only grows in creole corn plantations. “Conventional varieties have already undergone genetic improvement and are resistant”, explains Sulzbacher.

To propagate and develop, the fungus requires a combination of climatic factors. The spores, carried by the wind, enter the ear during the growth process, using the first strands that appear in the straw, known as corn hair, as a gateway.

They can also be spread by rainwater and enter the plant through the roots. Whichever way, they need heat and high humidity. “In the central valley of Rio Grande do Sul, where I live, we harvest in the summer, between November and February. This year, it was practically not possible because of the drought”, says Sulzbacher.

The capacity for spontaneous dissemination is not so high — in a 10-hectare plantation, Lucas de Sousa did not find more than 20 ears. In Mexico, where demand is constant, there are producers especially dedicated to growing the fungus.

It is possible to cause inoculation by spraying the crop with a solution of water with the grain powder, or by injecting the liquid directly into the ears, one by one, with the aid of a syringe. The effort, according to Mier, pays off financially.

“While a kilo of huitlacoche is sold for 5 to 10 dollars, a kilo of common corn earns cents for the producer”, he compares. But the induced fungus taste, he amends, is not so good. “What comes spontaneously tastes better and reaches a larger size.”

For those already thinking about provoking the proliferation of huitlacoche, Sulzbacher warns: the practice requires control and technical knowledge. “Strict supervision is essential so that it doesn’t really become a pest,” he warns.

Better, in his opinion, is to publicize the importance of the fungus, to prevent it from continuing to be feared and discarded, and to get it into the hands of as many chefs as possible. “We still don’t have a market to estimate how much it would cost here. Therefore, it should be treated like gold.”