Bar dos Arcos has a new drink menu inspired by the artist Lygia Clark; see images

There is something particular about São Paulo’s gastronomic scene that may not be found in other cities — the constant practice of naming drinks and dishes after celebrities. There is no shortage of examples, from Globo actresses and sub-celebrities who name desserts in the jocular Paris 6, to Peixe Lina Bo and Mignon Paulo Mendes, in reference to architects, at Café Artigas, in Campo Belo.

The relationships between what is sold and those honored are subject to the subjectivity of those who sign the menu and most of the time they may not make much sense. Taking this practice into consideration and already anticipating this possible criticism, bartender Michelly Rossi ends the presentation of Bar dos Arcos’ new cocktail menu, this one inspired by the artist Lygia Clark, saying that the artist’s relationship with drinks is in the sensoriality of his works and not in the direct inspiration of each cocktail with the name it bears.

The bar’s website even tries to explain each work that inspires its respective drink, but, as in so many examples from the capital of São Paulo, looking for references to Clark’s works in the cocktails offered is an effort in vain. But Rossi redeems himself. The bartender with almost 20 years of career, who signed the charter of Fel, in the center of São Paulo, and Revo Manufactory, in Santos, on the coast of São Paulo, makes no mistakes in the composition of the drinks presented, all served in glasses and doors -cup inspired by the artist.

As for the bartender’s creations, Geometria Sagrada, which borrows its name from the work “Geometria Amorosa”, contains gin, jabuticaba reduction, lemon juice and chickpea water foam (R$ 37). It’s an interesting drink, in which the texture of the foam complements the citrus flavors of the jaboticaba and the lemon. Abrigo Poético (R$ 59), which takes the homonymous work as a reference, based on sake, plum liqueur and dry vermouth is also a pleasant surprise

The menu also takes advantage of several national ingredients, from the jambu used to infuse the vodka in the drink O Eu e o Tu (R$49), which manages to maintain perfect proportions so that the flavor of the Amazonian herb does not stand out from the other components, even the cachaça, which is infused with ginger to make A Morte do Plano (R$39), and accompanied by a citrus syrup with lemongrass extract to form Casulo (R$35).

Perhaps the biggest surprise is the drink Os Bichos Não Têm Avesso (R$69), with a clear reference to Bloody Maria, a variation of Bloody Mary with tequila instead of vodka. The recipe mixes Don Julio blanco, Fino Jerez, dry vermouth, tomato water with black tucupi and rice vinegar to form one of the best cocktails on the menu.

The tributes to Lygia Clark are only in the drinks. To mitigate the effects of alcohol, you can order Camembert cheese wrapped in dough and baked, accompanied by chestnuts, honey and toast (R$ 63), and also the filet mignon tartare, which comes with aïoli and a crunchy sago biscuit (R$55).

The success of Bar dos Arcos’ new menu is certainly not based on the theme of visual arts, but relies on the research and work of Rossi, who would present exceptional cocktails, whatever the theme.

Bar dos Arcos

Pça. Ramos de Azevedo, S/N (Basement of the Municipal Theater of São Paulo), Center, central region. Tues. from 7pm to 2am; Wed. on Thursdays, from 6pm to midnight; Fri to Sat, from 6pm to 3am.