Bars in SP are dedicated to high-end cocktails and the movement is reflected in the increase in prices

A little over a decade ago, anyone who wanted to enjoy an old fashioned at a bar in São Paulo needed to be a little more energetic. Classic cocktails like this were rare due to the difficulty in finding ingredients such as bourbon, a whiskey that came from the USA.

Since then, the capital of São Paulo has become the only one in the country to feature in The World’s 50 Best Bars ranking, which actually lists the one hundred best in the world — there is Tan Tan, in 56th position, and SubAstor, in 58th.

Like haute cuisine, this high-end cocktail bar combines cutting-edge technology, research and top-quality raw materials. And, just like award-winning menus, the prices also match the boldness of the recipes.

Finding cutting-edge creations is what customers expect when they go to Exímia, a bar that Márcio Silva has just opened in Itaim Bibi. Before opening, Silva presented cocktails at 16 international events and masterclasses — he is the highest-ranked Brazilian in 2024 on the list of the 100 most influential people in the beverage industry compiled by the British magazine Drinks International, in 52nd place.

Much of the production of the drinks takes place away from the public eye, in the mezzanine, which is air-conditioned at 20ºC, where the spirits begin to be worked with natural aromas, such as fruits from Brazilian biomes.

Some of the techniques used at Exímia are heat infusions, sous-vide and vacuum distillation — which reduces pressure to lower the boiling point of liquids, preserving the characteristics of the ingredients.

The drink is then left to rest in a cold chamber at 5ºC before being finished at the bar. “In the mouth, the first sensation is the aromas. The alcohol comes later”, without hurting, says Márcio Silva, who charges between R$51 and R$57 per glass.

In São Paulo, prices that are already high could rise even higher. Thiago Bañares, who runs Tan Tan in Pinheiros and The Liquor Store in Jardim Paulista, says that the hottest thing at the moment is the Rotovap, a piece of equipment that went from laboratories to bars and has not yet arrived here because it costs around R$300,000.

“You can create your own distillate, extract the alcohol from any drink and even eliminate the color and make a clear Campari. Abroad, I’ve seen bars with up to three operating all day.”

The international trend is for technology to become increasingly restricted to the backstage, where the use of equipment such as dehydrators, sous-vide for low-temperature cooking and Thermomix — which helps, for example, to process ingredients such as fruits and incorporate them into drinks — is already common.

Thiago Pereira, partner at Bagaceira in Santa Cecília, says he can only keep his signature cocktails at R$33 because he is in the central region, far from neighborhoods like Pinheiros. “I also use more national drinks, especially cachaça, which helps keep prices down. Even with lower rent, the cost of raw materials is difficult.”

Although Brazilian spirits have won the approval of award-winning professionals, such as Alex Sepulchro, head bartender at SubAstor, imported spirits continue to take up more space on bar shelves.

According to Michelly Rossi, manager of Fábrica de Bares, which includes Bar dos Arcos, Riviera, Orfeu and Love Cabaret, there is still a lack of competition in the national industry. “Everyone is making gin, but almost no one makes good vermouth. Those who do, charge the same price as Italian vermouth, which I prefer because I already know it.”

Furthermore, elements that may seem like details to first-time visitors have already become essential ingredients for the captive audience. This is the case of larger, translucent ice, which takes longer to melt and is used in the glass of most cocktails. In many cases, these are supplied by specific companies and can cost up to R$3 per ice cube.

At the moment, Ivan Achcar, director of the School of Management in Gastronomy Business (EGG), says that bars in São Paulo are taking advantage of the good wave of cocktails. “The market sets the price. When things are hot, there is demand and people are willing to pay. You can raise prices.”

Where to try high-end cocktails

Arcos Bar

In the basement of the Municipal Theater, the menu features signature cocktails inspired by the work of Lygia Clark. The sacred geometry (R$45) mixes Tanqueray gin, jabuticaba reduction and lemons.

Pça. Ramos de Azevedo, s/nº, República, central region, @bardosarcos

Caledonia Whisky & Co.

Launched in June, the new cocktail menu offers a tour of the world of high-end cocktails. Among them is the New Orleans 1881, made with Wild Turkey Rye whiskey, Amaro Averna, fake lime juice (a compound of citric acids) and pepper cordial (a type of syrup) (for R$43).

R. Vupabussu, 309, Pinheiros, west region, @caledoniabar

Zebra Space

To celebrate the restaurant’s 12th anniversary, mixologist Néli Pereira has launched a new menu based on Brazilian ingredients. Among the new items (priced from R$35 to R$43), the Drácula has black garlic, cocoa liqueur and the Japanese distillate awamori. The Marafo has a fat wash (a process of infusing fat into drinks) of palm oil in cachaça, honey and tar liqueur.

R. Major Diogo, 237, Bela Vista, central region, @espacozebra

Excellent

The menu at the bar recently opened by Márcio Silva in Itaim Bibi includes signature drinks such as the xolotl (for R$53), which contains Don Julio Blanco tequila, Ballena liqueur, plum, strawberry and spiced salt.
The food menu is created by Curitiba-based chef Manu Buffara, a partner in the restaurant.

R. Dr. Mário Ferraz, 507, Itaim Bibi, west region, @eximiabar

Shiro Japanese Cocktail Bar

Chosen as the new addition of the year by the special The Best of São Paulo Gastronomy, the bar is located on the second floor of a Japanese restaurant. It serves classics and signature recipes, such as the Nihon Dry, made with umeshu (plum) liqueur aged for three years, gin and vermouth (R$60).

R. Padre João Manuel, 712, Cerqueira César, western region, @shirococktailbar

SubAstor

Launched in June, the new menu is based on Brazilian biomes. The Atlantic Forest (R$49) includes cambuci cordial, Bulleit Bourbon, pear brandy and bitters. For now, only available at the Vila Madalena location.

R. Delfina, 163, Vila Madalena, west region, @subastor

Tan Tan

Carbonated signature cocktails open Thiago Bañares’ menu. The Ortiz (R$68) is made with Don Julio tequila, Princesa Isabel cachaça, acerola, dill and lemon. Its owner, Thiago Bañares, also runs The Liquor Store.

R. Fradique Coutinho, 153, Pinheiros, west region, @tantannb
The Liquor Store – Al. Franca, 1,151, 1st floor, Jardim Paulista, west region, @theliquorstore.sp

The Punch Bar

In addition to classics, the restaurant serves signature Japanese-inspired recipes created by Ricardo Miyazaki. Among them is the green garden, made with Roku Japanese gin, lemon, bitters and macerated shiso leaves (R$56), which has a minty flavor. It is located in a gallery in the Paulista Avenue area.

R. Manuel da Nóbrega, 76, store 17, Paraíso, western region, @thepunchsp