Cepa subverts rules with cuisine reminiscent of a great jazz show

by

Daniel Buarque

Strain

  • When Wed. to Friday, from 7pm to 11pm; Sat., from 12pm to 4pm and 7pm to 11pm; Sun., from 12pm to 4pm
  • Where Pça dos Omaguás, 110, Pinheiros, western region
  • Link: https://www.instagram.com/restaurante.cepa/

Cepa is a restaurant for those who take food seriously and appreciate signature cuisine that defies expectations. After transforming Tatuapé into a gourmand destination, the restaurant moved to Pinheiros, where it now delivers cuisine that looks like a jazz show, deconstructing classic compositions to create something new, unpredictable and complex, with the potential to enchant anyone willing to discover it. more.

The image shows the interior of a restaurant called CEPA. The environment has tables with white tablecloths and yellow plastic chairs. The walls are exposed brick and there are plants suspended from the ceiling. In the background there is a visible kitchen area and a shelf with wine bottles. The lighting is soft, with hanging lamps. The name 'CEPA' is written in large letters on the wall.

Former space of the Cepa restaurant, in Tatuapé. Now, the house is located in Pinheiros. –
Cepa Restaurant/Instagram- 10.Jul.2024

The menu is like a jam session of flavors. Each dish is presented as a note in a relaxed and intricate composition, where unexpected ingredients meet and play with the palate.

This is the case of the corraleiro crudo with Cantabrian anchovies and brioche (R$58). The small dish is a delight that can be devoured in one bite, but which leaves a deep mark. The combination of raw meat and cured fish with toasted brioche is reminiscent of a burger, creating an eruption of umami that fills the palate.

This creative approach also appears in the comté cheese pastry (R$29), whose crispy dough envelops a creamy filling reminiscent of the iconic French onion soup. Here, the familiarity of the Brazilian pastry is transformed, deceiving the diner who expects a simple filling, but receives an unexpected and deliciously comforting experience. It’s like a dissonant note that, despite seeming out of place, makes the melody richer.

Another example of Cepa’s boldness is the catch of the day, raw and served with olive oil and wasabi cream (R$ 129). The simplicity of the dish, whose image has been widely shared on social media, impresses with its precision. The firm and fresh texture of the tuna, together with the pungent flavor of the wasabi and the smoothness of the olive oil, creates a harmony that evokes oriental cuisine, but with its own signature, a new twist on something so familiar.

Grilled squid, Italian white beans, bagna càuda and chorizo ​​oil served at Cepa restaurant

Grilled squid, Italian white beans, bagna càuda and chorizo ​​oil served at Cepa restaurant –
Reproduction/ @restaurante.cepa on Instagram

The grilled squid with white beans, bagna cauda and chorizo ​​oil is another dish that exemplifies the restaurant’s creative dexterity (R$ 134). The soft and slightly smoked mollusk finds an unexpected companion in white beans, which here seem to act as pasta, maintaining their integrity without losing their softness. The dish defies expectations and delivers a formidable sensory experience.

This ability to surprise and delight is also present in tripe, transformed into ragu and served with al dente rigatoni. The dish has an unusual balance: the pancetta adds flavor and complements the intensity of the tripe, while the cheese and mint bring umami and lightness. The combination is bold, but works harmoniously.

With a lot of creativity, Cepa offers an experience for those who are willing to give up the comfort of the obvious and embark on a gastronomic journey that challenges conventions, like good jazz.

And as in the current music scene, access is contested and has its price – it’s not cheap at all. Table reservations are made online weeks in advance and require an advance of R$400. And a meal for two can easily cost more than R$500. Still, it is still an excellent option for special moments.


Source: Folha

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