Opinion

Cool and with informal space, Shoshana has Jewish menu for initiates

by

Priscila Pastre

SHOSHANA DELISHOP

  • Where R. Correia de Melo, 206, Bom Retiro, central region
  • Instagram @shoshana_delishop

Imagine the menu of a cool restaurant based on Grandma’s recipe book. Now multiply the grandparents. This is the Shoshana menu in Bom Retiro, which brings together Jewish revenues from Central and East European countries.

But this warmth is for initiates. The names of the dishes are difficult, the preparations are little known, so better to know what to expect – and what to ask.

Judaic Restaurant dishes, Shoshana –
Keiny Andrade/Folhapress

In the evening, the mood is boteching. Live Jewish music, drinks coloring the tables, clientele used to the kitchen of the mama yidche – the Jewish mother.

The attendant suggests Keará (R $ 180). He says it is a kind of tongue menu that serves two people. It seems perfect for those who will write a gastronomic criticism. But it is not.

What comes to the table are entrances. Picles, homus, pumpkin puree, borscht (beet soup), chicken broth, gefilte fish (fish dumpling) and mish-mesh (chicken liver pate and creamy egg). Of dish, only the shpondre, beef rib with pasta pulled in the “shimaltz” (chicken fat). It is worth if the idea is pinching, not dinner. To accompany, choose beer or a drink like Negroni Sbagliato (R $ 40), with sparkling in place of Gin.

Bolder, Blady Miriam ($ 38) is version of Bloody Mary with beet and vodka pickles infused in Shmaltz. But isn’t “shimaltz” chicken fat? So it is. It tastes like cold soup and does not fit well with a menu already worked in chicken notes.

If the idea is to know emblematic dishes, bet on the portions to divide. Highlight for latkes (potato fried pancakes; R $ 39) and Varenikes (potato and onion stuffed pasta; R $ 42). Both in portion to six.

But it is the romanian bows (romanian polenta with ribs; We are very creamy, crumbles in the mouth. Too bad the Mizeria (cucumber and yogurt salad) destroys and cools the hug.

Those who go to lunch also have the possibility of asking for the PF, which changes from time to time. At the time of the visit, it was Plov – rice with meat and vegetables (R $ 32 only the plate or R $ 45 with salad and drink). It didn’t thrill.

Better (and also pleasant to the averse to news) is Shnitzel (chicken breaded fillet, R $ 53; or eggplant, R $ 50), which arrives dry, with the appetizing potato salad.

Desserts give a show. The pudding (R $ 22) follows the secret recipe of the former owner, Shoshana Baruch. Which is no longer so secret anymore. The attendant revealed, but asked confidentiality. “We only tell those who eat the pudding.”

Pudding of the Shoshana Restaurant, in Bom Retiro –
Filipe Redondo/Folhapress

Babka (R $ 30), braided chocolate cake in a salty caramel bed, is pure poetry. Kibbutz orange (R $ 28) is delicate and contrasts textures and flavors with the olive oil and rosemary cracker crumbs

Source: Folha

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