Opinion

Jamie Oliver promises chef’s touch, but delivers pineapple to a new restaurant in SP

by

Priscila Pastre

Jamie Oliver Kitchen

  • Where Av. Horácio Lafer, 61, Itaim Bibi, West Region
  • Instagram @jamieoliverkitchensp

Jamie Oliver Kitchen arrives in Sao Paulo with the proposal to gather the “greatest career recipes” of the English chef. Mix this with influences received on their many trips around the world. And deliver a miscellaneous options on the menu ranging from lasagna to moqueca.

Part of the recipes is known to those who follow Jamie’s books and programs. Perhaps to give a new outfit, there are allegedly exotic side dishes.

This is not the case with the great entry of meat tataki with sesame (R $ 56), sealed and served with ponzu sauce. Another good option to start is crispy meat croquettes ($ 36). Tasty and soft inside, come with Chimichurri.

The image shows the interior of a modern restaurant, with tables and chairs arranged in an organized way. The atmosphere is illuminated by pending lamps and has a wooden ceiling with slats. In the background, there is a bar with shelves and bottles. Decorative plants are visible, contributing to the welcoming atmosphere.

Jamie Oliver Kitchen restaurant atmosphere in Itaim Bibi –
Tiago Valezi /Disclosure

But the main dishes slip into combinations and execution problems on the inauguration menu. The definitive mushroom risotto ($ 85) is a good example. Gradous and cooking point of the past grain, it was more for a mushroom cream. A disregarding eastern touch does not help. The Shimeji Tempurá which comes on the Encharca risotto, and the breaded turns into a Pope. The expected raw yolk that makes up the dish has come sadly broken in the first experience. On a second visit, it came intact, but the dish kept the other flaws.

There are a part of meat on the menu too. All served in the unnecessary company
of a piece of grilled and glaced pineapple. A tropical touch for English to see that tends to leave on the plate. Ancho ($ 99) was missing salt, but he was soft and at the point.

The classic English Fish and Chips ($ 79) could be a right option, but it’s just ok. It did not come dry as expected, and the potatoes turned out to be flurry inside. The peas puree had regular taste and texture.

The best request was Papardelle with Ragu ($ 75). Which, by the way, could be called Ragu with Papardelle, since it came with much more meat than mass. Which would not have been a problem, as it was tasty and dismantled in the mouth. The problem is that the pasta was too cooked.

A man is standing in an outdoor environment with a background of green vegetation. He wears a dark jacket and a light shirt. The facial expression seems serious.

Chef Jamie Oliver during an event on children’s obesity in London, in 2018 –
Ben Stansall/AFP

The desserts even seem to have come out of Jamie’s practical kitchen books. In these publications, the chef simplifies as much gastronomic techniques so that the recipes can be made by everyday cooks. The result is good for dinner at home with friends, but it is far from what is expected of a famous restaurant.

The Lemon Curd Bar (R $ 39) was pasty instead of creamy. Tooce too sweet, it lacked acidity. Better Custard of Baked Coconut (R $ 38). Not too sweet and with lemon zest, he plays with the textures of a ball of ice cream over a thick cream and sweet crumbs.

Anyone who goes looking for authorial food finds something more like a global network (80 restaurants). And Jamie Oliver is present only on the pages of the open books at the entrance-in practice, the supervision is the executive chef Lisandro Lauretti.

Dessert instagramble disappointed

Jamie Oliver Kitchen’s chocolate mousse (R $ 35) was gelatinous and came with a sickness caramel. Decorated with a golden sheet on top, it seemed more made to be posted on social networks than thought to be real

Source: Folha

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