With floating menu, kitchen 212 raises vegetables to protagonists

What is the first image that comes to mind when you think of a lettuce plate? Probably a salad, right?

Well, not if you are in the kitchen 212. There, the Roman lettuce is grilled (R $ 48). And it arrives at the table in a combination with aliche, pecan walnuts and a rain of grated tulha cheese. When you pass the knife to share the entrance, you hear a “crac” sound. The noise of crispness causes strangeness. And it salivates, as it was announced that something very tasty is on its way to the mouth.

The nuts are both sweet and smoked, firm and loving. The very thin grated tulha cheese brings lightness. The flavor of the anchova does not take over. On the contrary, it adds gently and rejoices the taste.

One of the most requested dishes of the house, the grilled lettuce makes attention to the part of the menu that bears the name “of our garden”. The fact that the restaurant works with ingredients cultivated in its own space can sound pretentious. But in this case, it deserves an attentive look.

From there, combinations such as eggplant entrances, sheep curd and almonds (R $ 36), zucchini with Stracciatella and Niá (R $ 58), and leeks, fish ova and a cold egg sauce and mustard named Grail (R $ 42).

This last option is another that raises the position of protagonist an ingredient generally used as a supporting. Garlet clove tubes serve as a bed for a Crispy of his own. A single ingredient in two different experiences in texture and flavor, on the same dish.

Some dishes are fixed, others come in or depend on the station. The ossobuco pie (R $ 62) always comes back in the fall. With the charm of being served in a pan of iron, and covered by a puff pastry made in the house. In the center, the bone with tutane. Pure umami. It could already come with the grilled natural fermentation bread (R $ 8). But the waiter offers separate

The size of the inputs varies a lot, the price too. Then it is worth talking to the waiter to adjust expectations. In addition, the proposal is that dishes will be shared. Then it is worth asking what will be will, without distinction between what is portion and what is among the main ones.

Among them, the Duck Magret (R $ 128) reaches the right point, very red, with a thin layer of fat that adds flavor and greasiness. Pieces of grilled beet and a delicate puree of root-bracket complete this dish, balancing sweetness and peak.

The most requested dessert is an unusual basil cake with mascarpone (R $ 34). If you still have wine in the cup, the goat cheese pie with fruit jelly (R $ 32) yields an interesting combination.
On the night of the visit, the house of chef Stefan Weitbrecht and photographer Victor Collor had only women in front of the grill and the bar. In tune with the dishes, the service was attentive and delicate. The hall, with few places and low light, is even more cozy if the table is near the fire. Ideal for the colder nights of this time of year.