Opinion

Monotony erases tasty tasty menu shine in the second

by

Priscila Pastre

Second

  • When R. Professor Tamandaré Toledo, 160, Itaim, West Region, @Desigunda.Restaurante
  • Link: https://www.instagram.com/desegunda.restaurante/

A tide menu in Sao Paulo hardly costs less than $ 500. This makes the second restaurant in Itaim seem especially attractive. At the Copyright House of Chef couple Julia Tricate and Gabriel Coelho, the seven -time menu costs $ 235 per person, without drink.

The kitchen is open to a simple hall. On the night of the visit, the rap played in a volume that hurt the conversation. But the expectation for the tongue menu spoke louder.

A black dish with a gourmet food presentation. In the center there is a mixture of ingredients that includes pieces of meat, herbs and edible flowers such as green leaves and purple petals. The bottom is a wooden table, which contrasts with the dark plate.

Tartare of meat with tonnato sauce (tuna and capers) and mustard pickles at the second restaurant –
Priscila Pastre /Folhapress

The parade began with a pair of oysters. One with cashew sorbet and purple onion pickles. Another, with pepper and apple balls. Both with a balanced coriander touch, complementing the flavors lightly.

Following, meat tartare with tonnato sauce (tuna and capers) and mustard pickles. The decorated sheets that decorated him displayed drops that resembled the morning dew. A beauty. To accompany, crispy black tortilla. A plate full of freshness, with textures that contrast and complement each other.

Of more complex flavor, the carrot on the ember came with other preparations with itself: Curry Thai of Carrot and Tempura of… Carrot! An unexpected yogurt ice cream with Zátar walked in harmony with the sweetness of the vegetable. And it faced, to the equal to the curry’s cunt. An intriguing and delicious dish.

He paved the way for the bovine tongue. Slowly cooked and toasted by the ember with caramelized cauliflower puree. Katsuobushi (dehydrated and smoked beautiful fish) brought Umami. The arugula revealed peak and bitterness. And Demi-Glace made you want to lick the plate.

Then came the bodybound cheek. In the perfect texture, with an unusual puree of bread, and playing with onion used in various preparations, such as Beurre Blanc (butter and wine sauce), pickles and ember. Very tasty, but it remembered the previous dish too much. Again a cooked meat slowly, accompanied by an unctuous cream.

The expectation was for a very different next plate. Instead came another slowly cooked meat, with more unctuous creams and more Demi-Glace. It was the termites plate that, unfortunately, was dry. The side dishes – clove bread and potato salad – gave an air of barbecue.

It was the impression that the kitchen leaned on less complex dishes to prepare – and with greater ability to please a wider audience.

But the monotony has caused the tough menu to no longer fulfill one of its functions: to lead the dine on a way with the beginning, middle and end. And lead him to be surprised, on this journey, with nuances and flavors that might not prove on his own.

Dessert is pleasant and balanced

A shallow round plate has a dessert consisting of light cream, strawberry pieces, a portion of pasta or meringue and a dark powder topping, possibly chocolate or coffee. The bottom of the plate is neutral, and the table is wood, with a smooth finish.

Fresh strawberry and in a toasted jam, jabuticaba sorbet and white chocolate ganache –
Priscila Pastre/Disclosure

The dessert brought a flash of the initial glow. Strawberry in two versions – fresco and a hot toasted jabuticaba sorbet and white chocolate ganache. Pleasant and balanced


Source: Folha

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