Opinion

Lemon, in the northern region, risks in inventive kitchen on lemon without mastering the basics

by

Priscila Pastre

Lemon restaurant

  • Where R. Roque de Morais, 71, Lemon, Northern Region, @lemonrestaurante
  • Link: https://www.instagram.com/lemonryraurante/

On social networks, Lemon says that its goal is to bring good cuisine to the Lemon neighborhood, in the northern region of São Paulo. In this context, what was expected to find was a local restaurant with well done food.

In advance, the menu already indicates a certain identity crisis. List at the same time preparations such as taco, ceviche, sassaki, risotto, hamburger and pizza.

A plate of orange risotto, decorated with white cheese cubes and pieces of tomatoes, with a green pesto center. The risotto is served on a black plate with a wide edge, on a wooden table.

Tomato risotto at Lemon restaurant –
Priscila Pastre/Folhapress

In one of the restaurant visits, proving the executive menu ($ 68) seemed a good alternative to better understand its operation. The entrance was a rib croqueta, which had a lot of filling and little flavor. And the chosen main course was the tomato risotto.

Before the dish arrived, the attendant warned that the rice point was al dente – very better, by the way, than to receive a Pope. But he was really bad and, as a consequence, the risotto did not have the delicious creaminess. The grains looked like pebbles, hard to chew and stuck to the teeth. A difficult dish to swallow.

In another visit to the address, it was difficult to set up a complete meal that made sense.

The waiter indicated to start with salmon cannoli (R $ 38), followed by the shrimp brutal rice (R $ 85), the most requested dish of the house. To close, the dessert called Lemon Fruit (R $ 40).

Asking for a baptized entrance to the name of the Sicilian specialty – that, originally, is a fried tubular mass stuffed with a sweet and soft ricotta – it sounded almost like a heresy. And it was really.

Small tubes of a thin, smooth dough arrived stuffed with a tasteless cold cream. According to the menu, it was a mixture of salmon, dry curd and lemon-sicilian. In the end, the reference to the candy does not help the life of those who ask for the dish to know what to expect.

The main one came in sequence. On top of the rice and prawns, large white acorns that, according to the attendant, would be of Mascarpone, creamy and smooth Italian cheese. Beside, a piece of grilled-sicilian lemon. The idea is to squeeze it, mix everything, and then, yes, give the first fork.

The result is disastrous. Cheese is actually a foam that soon liquefies, soaking and cooling the recipe. The prawns were too cooked. And the rice – that proven before this mixture was revealed at the right point and wrapped in a tasty Bisque sauce – lay in an insipid porridge.

To close, lemon -shaped dessert takes green -dyed chocolate on the outside and lemon mousse inside. The bark too thick involved a pasty and, again, tasteless. After the meal, the impression is to be facing a kitchen that wants to take too high flights without first offering the basics well done – that may, perhaps, deserve to be more valued in the city.

The suggestion for children (R $ 28) was pasta with red sauce and breaded chicken, but it was requested to change pasta by rice – it is without problems. But the proposal to accompany was a portion of fries (R $ 20). Salad or vegetables would be better for escorting two thick layers of dough with a thin squeezed chicken in the middle. The fries, however, were good


Source: Folha

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