Opinion

Drill makes food from the table, but service hinders experience

by

Priscila Pastre

Drill

  • Where R. Aspicuelta, 429, Vila Madalena. West Region, @broca.sp

If it depended only on the food, the drill would be among the best restaurants in Vila Madalena, with creative, well-executed and tasty dishes. With the advantage of being from those places where ingredients and preparations from different cultures are in surprising combinations.

Chef Cadu Evangelisti bets on creations to share that put Korean sauce and cambuci, misô and tahine, Peruvian marinade and Argentine, cassava and togarashi. Arab, Asian and Latin American influences with arab influence take the meal of the ordinary and turn it into the subject among customers.

A plate of food served on a white plate with blue edge. The dish contains meat in a dark sauce, covered with chips of chips and decorated with a little green parsley. The background is dark, suggesting a restaurant environment.

Double served at the Broca restaurant –
Priscila Pastre/Folhapress

Just look at the tables around to observe comments on each dish that arrived. Surprised diners, trying to understand the alchemy behind the preparation of sometimes despised ingredients, which gained prominence there in attractive versions. It is worth counting two emblematic examples.

The first is the language ($ 54, the skewer). Even the most averse to her are in danger of surrendering. Marinated in an anticuchera parsley (known for its use in the heart’s heart skewers of Peru’s street food), the thin slices are finished in the red -hot and served with Chimichurri. Anyone waiting for the marked flavor and characteristic texture of the dish can be strange. But you can’t even complain, because the result is so good that you are busy just eating.

Nor does you need to be a double lover ($ 52) to risk the version of the house, with Mocotó, Bacon and Paio. Who likes, tells you. Those who do not like, can attack the greedy (and very tasty) broth and the chips that come on.

Already the guioza of the house (R $ 62) is a known figure. Stuffed with roasted chicken and green corn curd, it comes in a spicy sauce and makes it beautiful. Lovers of spicy recipes will be especially happy with fried and glaced wings and overcoxes with Korean sauce, sugarcane and cambuci molasses (R $ 58), made to smear.

The Gohan (Japanese rice) that accompanies this dish neutralizes a little of the spike. Too bad the portion is shamefully small. As much as you save, it ends long before chicken. By the way, it is worth the tip to ask for this option only at the end, to the burning that is in the mouth does not compromise the other recipes.

The dessert was asking for a coffee (R $ 42). It arrived with a caramelized white chocolate fudge with mission, bitter mousse and well -aered chocolate, orange gel and a delicate tahine ice cream. Balanced and delicious.

In the end, the taste experience in the drill was great. Too bad, the service, inattentive and antipatic, is running out of the quality of the kitchen. The dishes that ended were only removed after the attendant was called one, two, three times. The wine was not replaced once. Coffee, requested with dessert, arrived well after. And here it is worth mentioning that the concept of “restaurant with bar environment” should not be an excuse. Allowing bars have well -trained waiters.

Another boring detail: The open kitchen hood does not realize the message, and the clientele that sits in the main hall is in danger of returning home smoked.

Source: Folha

foodgastronomic criticismgastronomyleaf guiderestaurantrestaurantsSão PauloVila Madalena

You May Also Like

Recommended for you