Elea Proveria serves tasty hits, but commits some slips

When you open the Elea Provaria menu you have the feeling that you will make a meal that goes through well -known flavors of those who appreciate Italian cuisine. It has fettuccine, ravioli, lasagna, pizza. But everything has one more touch, in a search for the most comforting dish as possible. The result goes through tasty hits – and some slips.

The portion of Arancini Cacio & Pepe (R $ 48) comes with cured duck magret. Well marked, he takes care of the taste (but in a good way), and leaves the dumplings the function of conquering by textures: crispy on the outside and creamy inside.

The very fresh burrata (R $ 68) gains in complexity with a combination of pesto, backed chestnut crumbs and tomatoes. The focus of natural fermentation that accompanies is so good that it deserved repeat (R $ 10, the extra slice).

Five five were proved. Highlight for the Ossobuco’s greasy tortelli (R $ 82), made in noisette butter, with tulha cheese and onion molasses. Fresh pasta cooked at the right point, intense stuffing, toasted notes and a certain sweetness that together reach the maximum level of the feeling of comfort that a dish can provide.

The Doppio ravioli (R $ 82) also tries. But it lacks subtlety to him. The menu warns about the filling of ricotta, spinach and sweet corn cream, but does not prevent strangeness. It calls ravioli, it sounds like ravioli, but the taste is too much of Pamonha’s. The sheep cheese even tries to make a counterpoint, but does not realize and get lost.

The lasagna (R $ 81), stuffed with tomato jam, healed pancetta, tulha cheese (again) and mushrooms, comes in a thin and long piece, with the layers facing up. With the sides toasted, it pleases the lovers of those burns in the corners of the baking dish. But it can disappoint those who wait for the lasagna with copious sauce that became popular in the São Paulo songs.

Fettuccine al Rago de Rib (R $ 79) was very spicy, which may apparently have been a finalization error. Picance ended up stealing the scene and compromising the combination of mission and tulha cheese.

In Pizza Marguerita (R $ 62, with four pieces) the flavor that takes over is Tulha cheese. Good at first. Then I get sick. His presence in so many recipes collaborates with the perception of a search for comforting dishes. Rich in Umami, the fifth flavor, is one of those ingredients that make salivary. But it could be used more parsimony.

Dessert, Tiramissu (R $ 44) does not shine. The champagne crackers appear to form a thin cake covered by mascarpone, passing away from the expected layers interspersed with cream. Do not feel the taste of coffee or marsala. Choux (R $ 37), with cheese mousse and guava from the house, has potential. Missing more full and a thinner and crispy crust.

I could see the desire to air traditional recipes with inventive touches, which is welcome. But you need to warn the customer that the lasagna is different, that ravioli is sweet and that fettuccine is spicy. Even for the amounts charged, you can’t find that you may not quite what he would like to eat just when the dish arrives