Gloria Bistro is a good French news amidstairs of restaurants in Rio

From two years ago, there are rare weeks when there is no new bar or restaurant, those cool and deserving a visit, opening the doors in Rio. It is even difficult to follow the rhythm. The experiments are varied, although still lacking a representative of Indian cuisine – all leads to believe it will not take time.

One of the grateful news of the recent cycle is Gloria Bistro. He opened three months ago in Ipanema and, as the name makes clear, is a bistro. His proposal, however, goes a little further and seeks to give the imigrantes accent to this traditional French cuisine. The Lebanese trio is an example: Homus tahin, Baba Ghaoush smoked and dry curd can come together ($ 58), or separate ($ 22) as entry.

It is an interesting option of the lean and well thought out menu, with all the dishes presented on a single page. Before talking about them, it is worth highlighting some friendly details of glory: it does not charge cork fee and officially announces in the menu that the main ones follow a garrison-“if they wish, feel free to change.” It sounds like music to the ears of those who have already gotten used to the ugly face of waiters in cases of any change in the request.

I exercised with satisfaction my right and replaced the herbal salad that accompanied the Black Angus Pastrami (R $ 112, the chest; R $ 188, the rib). The sautéed broccoli entered, more embarrassed than I imagined. Pastrami, another nod to immigrant kitchen, is the most expensive dish in the house. Comes with baroa mashed potatoes too.

I chose the rib that, according to the menu, weighs approximately 500g. What served me seemed a little smaller than that, but I saw some huge patacons at other tables.

Pastrami (breast) is also offered in a duo of sanduichinhos with Dijon’s mustard aïoli, purple onion and lettuce (R $ 56). For the price, it is not worth it. Best choice is the tarters.

There are three options: meat, salmon and tuna (which was missing). The salmon ($ 62) comes with a spotted Maple Syrup, perhaps a little shy about Sour Cream. The fillet-mignon (R $ 58), subtly spicy and without egg yolk, accompanies fries, thin and hot.

Chef Ignácio Peixoto (formerly Bag and Bagatelle) is the one who commands the kitchen of Gloria and also of Pici, successful Italian right next door, both of the same owner. His expertise with the pasta is evident in the best dish served in both visits to the bistro: the shrimp linguine in the beurre blanc sauce, based on butter and wines (R $ 98).

It comes well al dente, with the fragrant, silky texture sauce. It is a full dish, served in a classy vintage dishes, like all of glory, in which the abundant and soft sauteed shrimps contrast with some croûtons.

The dessert was the least exciting part of the meal. I was unhappy when opting for Pain Perdu a la Suzette (R $ 36). The brioche french toast was an island surrounded by an exaggerated citrus liquid, the result of the mixture of tangerine syrup with Cointreau. Perhaps I should have opted for the safety of profiteroles with ice cream and brigadeiro syrup (R $ 36). Being conservative can sometimes be good.