Luiza Pastor
Europeans who came to São Paulo in 1930 sought a professional activity according to their skills and aspirations. One of them was Spanish Eduardo Fernandes, who opened a sale in Mandaqui, a neighborhood in the north of São Paulo, where he announced his “dry and wet”.

Family that commands Luiz Fernandes’s bar. From left to right: Idalina, Carol, Eduardo, Clara and Luiz Fernandes –
Luiza Pastor/Folhapress
During the early years of the house, everything went well – that, in 1968, a resident of the neighborhood brought from the city of Presidente Prudente, in the interior of São Paulo, the revolutionary idea of opening a supermarket that would become a reference in various areas of the state capital, Pastorinho.
With the competition that attracted the parish eager for news, the vendinhas were being abandoned, and most ended up closing. But a family had a better idea: why not turn the establishment into a bar? Toilet paper is found anywhere, but a good snack will always find a taste to call yours.
Thus was born, in 1970, the bar of Luiz Fernandes, name of the son of the old Spanish immigrant that would found a business that still resists in Augusto Tolle Street, 15, in Mandaqui, and is already in the third generation, with Luiz daughters graduated in gastronomy and marketing, but attentive to the recipe for success of the house.
It was with the original recipes of the Portuguese wife of the father that Luiz Fernandes played a business that still attracts crowds that pile up on the two -way street, in the dispute for a place between the squeezed tables of bar. As a decoration, a confusing mix of football teams from various countries – but few pay attention to ornaments.
There, the food and drink are stars, served without props or firulas by waiters who circulate without missing a request for the narrow spaces between the tables.
If Luiz follows every detail of the movement next to the woman, Rita de Cassia, her daughters Clara and Carol are also totally dedicated to the business and ready to let nothing change the recipe for success.
“We grew up inside,” says Clara. “The smell of the dumpling, the noise of the salon, the customer’s stories are part of our childhood.”
Although they had at some point rehearsed careers away from the bar, the blood spoke louder. “One day, without realizing it, we were already making important decisions,” recalls Clara, who dropped the architectural course a year after starting.
Sister Carol, graduated in Nutrition, also worked in the area outside the family business, but soon understood that her passion was taking care of the bar, both the kitchen and the operation.
Daughters now try to think of the modernization of the house, in elements such as team and management. “Standing still is very risky,” says Clara.
“We want to grow consciously, with well -defined processes, a team aligned with our values and never turn a soulless franchise.”
If bar and beer are synonymous for most of the bar root goers, the differential of Luiz Fernandes’s bar (or BDL for the intimate) are the beating and caipirinhas of fruit that dates back to the use of old vendinha products.
There are beats, such as coconut, peanuts and many other traditional root bar, served in a small glass of 150 ml, for $ 11, but can be taken home in 770 ml bottles for $ 70.
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To accompany, a menu of snacks and the attraction inherited from the old Spaniard: a hitch counter, Portuguese version of the tapas, ranging from portions of canned jiló to fat slices of morcela, passing through rollmops and palm heart slices, cheeses and various sausages.
Just go there and ask, that the clerk prepares the dish that will come to your table in a few minutes, no matter how hidden it is.
But the flagship of the house is the meat cake raised by two Idalines, Eduardo’s mother and wife, who had the same name. Accompanied by vinaigrette, the delicacy comes in two sizes, for $ 8 the small and $ 12 the large.
In time, it is worth mentioning that BDL has two other units, all in the north. A house is located at Avenida Engenheiro Caetano Álvares, 5,470, and another at the Hypercenter Andorinha Food Court. There is an exchange of cooks of the three units to ensure that everything always comes out with the same quality and tradition. A continuous concern of the bar.
LUIZ FERNANDES BAR
Av. Eng. Caetano Álvares, 5,470, Mandaqui, Northern Region. @bardoluizf
R. Augusto Tolle, 610, Santana, North Region
Av. Parada Pinto, 2,262, Florestal Horto, Northern Region
Source: Folha
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