Stuffed pasta and full dishes are worth going to the cucina, in Pompeia

There are restaurants that seem to stop in time. Places that you revisit years later and find exactly the same way, with the same aromas in the air and the old dishes resisting on the menu. And, depending on what you are looking for, this can be a quality. It gives a sense of welcome, of permanence.

Des Cucina, although not an old restaurant, fits this category of stable houses. The menu, although it varies one or another new item, continues to bet on Comfort Food on full and individual dishes.

At a time when more and more addresses in the city are betting on portions to share, the place goes as Porto Seguro for times when what is sought is just a pleasant meal, without great adventures by the intricacies of copyright.

As usually happens in homes of the type, the strong are the main ones. But before you reach them, the entrance. We tasted Steak Tartare (R $ 64). The preparation leaves aside the sophistication that the dish allows and bets on the abundance of condiments, with chopped meat to the fullest. In addition to the toast, it comes with a breaded onion, which does not adorn the rest, and more like a separate entrance.

Following, one of the proven dishes was the ossobuco risotto ($ 92). It arrived tired, al dente, gracefully spread throughout the plate and very unctuous. The raw Radicchio chopped on top does not collaborate with aesthetics, but works well by adding crispness, bitterness and some lightness to a very dense dish.

Another tasty risotto is wild duck with orange touch and fresh pepper (R $ 102). These are the cheapest risottos on the menu. The others have more salty values, reaching R $ 224 for the fruits of the grill seafood.

Anyway, what Chef Sergio França’s kitchen has the best is the stuffed pasta. Case of Pecorino Cheese Fagotelle (R $ 78). The taste refers to the carbonara. But with the gem mixed with the cheese inside the dough, in a soft stuffing. Instead of Carbonara’s creamy sauce, a Umami -rich broth based on caramelized onion, with pancetta and zucchini.

Of the pasta proven on other occasions, highlighting the mascarpone cheese ravioli (R $ 79). A touch of orange, the accurate combination with butter and sage sauce, and the contrast of textures with the pistachio roasted pleases those looking for a comforting and balanced dish.

From dessert, we ordered the guava petit gateau with cheese ice cream (R $ 38). It salivates when you give the first spoon, with the guava cream exploding and then spilling. But the inside of the dough was out of the point. More to raw than for creamy. In the ice cream, ice crystals indicated that perhaps it was not so fresh.

The environment, with white towels and sober decoration, moves between the formal and the festive. At Sunday lunch the tables are taken by families in the neighborhood. For the relationship with the waiters, always ready to pat on the back and even hugs, you can see that there are many old customers. Proof that the place pleases. With a revamped entrances and desserts could attract people from outside as well. Without losing the warmth.